A love affair.

I can see it now, leisurely waking and walking to get my morning fruit shake from Rosetta Cafe where pleasantries will be exchanged… enjoying the sunlight and warm temperatures, taking a dip into a rooftop pool to cool… nibbling on spring rolls and curries… taking long naps in a hammock… and receiving nightly foot rubs.

Vietnam, my love— I apologize. I find myself having an affair with your neighbor, Cambodia.

The excitement started at the airport, with my name on a sign being held by my Tuk Tuk driver. There’s something calming, having a “driver” await you at arrivals. We zipped past other motor bikes and Tuk Tuk’s, along dirt roads and street side vendors enroute to Onederz.

I booked a private, one bedroom room at Onederz…. The staff, accommodations, tours, and amenities— were a true wonder.

Waiting on my room to be prepared, I went to the salon “Cosmetic Brands” next door, for a $12usd gel mani and pedi… With my nails perfectly done, I felt like a whole new lady.

I wandered the streets for a massage, and after a few “scares” [As I was laying down on a floor mattress, in a darkened room, 2 MASSIVE spiders crawled on the wall above my head… dress on inside out, bra in hand, I ran outta that joint… I yelled “spiders!” while running past the bewildered staff, but doubtful they knew English, sooo…] I found myself at Healing Hands. They started with a foot scrub, and led me to a 2nd floor room. Besides the cute in-house dog on the 1st floor occasionally barking, it was blissful. One of the best 60min massages I’ve had, all for $14.

Then, I met Rosetta, and it all started with a fresh pineapple fruit shake. Over the next 2 1/2 days, I found myself at this quaint cafe, working my way through their fruit shake menu. They had just created a food menu, so on my first visit, I was being served beef with a pepper sauce and pumpkin soup. They couldn’t have chosen a better taste tester!

Their menu is surprisingly extensive for a small cafe, and everything is made with the freshest ingredients! When I ordered a banana fruit shake, I saw one of the owners hop on his motor bike, returning shortly with bananas from the fruit market 🙂

I took my shake to go, and sipped away at the rooftop pool at Onederz.

Once my room was ready, I passed out for a few hours. The room was comfy, clean, and cool.

I awoke for a quick trip to the Angkor Night Market. Living in Beijing and a frequent shopper at the Silk Market, I’ve considered myself a “haggling pro”…. Well, after my first round at the Night Market, I’m extremely disappointed in myself. I suppose I should have asked the questions and done my research when it came to art negotiation. On my last day in Cambodia, I learned you offer 1/2 of what the seller starts with. Welp, I bargained and got the seller down 20% the first night, and 50% the second night. However, I paid full price for one in particular as it was an original amongst all of the “fakes”. I don’t necessarily think the paintings are manufactured per se, as there are obvious brush strokes and although minor, there are  differences… yet, the overall painting is not a unique design. When I spotted my “original” painting with the 2 elephants- I had asked the artist if he could add additional touches to fulfill what I had envisioned. He finished it that night and personally delivered it to my hotel the next day. To me, it’s perfect. He added my personal touches beautifully. His name is BORIN… if you find yourself at the Angkor Night Market- check his work out.

On Sunday morning, I awoke at 3:30am for a sunrise tour to Angkor Wat… We arrived just as the colors were changing and the darkness turned to light.

I found a spot, near the temple and watched the sun rise behind Angkor Wat. The experience was surreal.

I rejoined my tour group, and was guided through Angkor Wat, Ta Phrom (Tomb Raider circa 2001), Bayon, and Angkor Thom.

The temples and history were amazing, but my God, was the heat grueling. By the time we pulled up to the 4th temple, I yelled out from the front seat of our tour bus, “I thought the last one, was the last one!” I don’t remember walking along the dirt path, or the details of that last temple. I was just tying to make it through as I imagined what would actually happen, if I just collapsed from heat stroke. How would my group mates react to this stranger going down? How long until help arrived? How long until I came to?

The only time I wasn’t suffering, was riding front seat in that old jalopy of a van, legs spread open, feeling that bit of cool air crank out.

The latter half of the afternoon, I dreamed of stripping down and throwing myself into an ice cold shower… thanking God, for age & wisdom… or for creating me to be a tad bougie, “splurging” on that single room with private bath. Apologies to my “thrifty” tour mates bunked up dorm style with an en-suite.

A nap was needed, to prepare myself for the night ahead of bargaining and drowning myself at Pub Street…. but, first- a coconut shake and sweet and sour chicken at Rosetta Cafe…. I don’t play around once I find a good thing.

At the night market, I bought 12 scarves… 2 more pieces of art… and received 2 rub downs. The second night was also, when the universe introduced me to BORIN and our original piece of art.

The Night Market… took me 4 hours to make it through, and I still don’t think I covered it all. Thank heavens I ran outta cash when I did.

No trip to Angkor Wat is complete, without boozing at Angkor What? — Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998.

 

Even with an afternoon nap, I started the night early, and ended it early. With the extreme heat, the booze was just being sweat out… so irresponsible drinking wasn’t even an option.

But, oh did that AC back in my room feel good.

On my last morning in Siem Reap, I had a final fruit shake and curry at Rosetta for breakfast, saying my goodbyes and giving thanks to my new friends. I had one last $3/ hour massage in an airondeck on the corner, and went through the open stalls of the market for one last look over. I came across decent knock offs, and for only a third of the price of my finest negotiations in Beijing… Again, I question my haggling skills altogether.

In the end, I left Siem Reap with an overweight suitcase, all while thinking (scheming) a plan of how to trick AirAsia and their strict 7kg baggage allowance.

Why I continue to bypass the additional baggage pre-checkin, is beyond me. I suppose I’d rather continue to splurge on those private rooms and airport lounges 😉 [Speaking of lounges… if you find yourself at the DMK airport in Bangkok… Hand over your CC and spend some time at the Coral Executive Lounge. I spent 6 hours in this lounge, and for the first time, wished my layover were longer… Complimentary massages, premium open bar with fab mixologists, the most expansive buffet including a bruschetta station, pasta station (amongst many others), shrimps with caviar, and the most attentive wait staff.]

The tuk tuk ride to the Siem Reap Airport was bittersweet…. Excited to continue my adventures, but sad to say goodbye to my new love.

Cambodia… I will find my way back to you. I’ll hole myself up in an “upscale shack” and learn how to become a minimalist, so long as I can spend my days with you.