After stepping foot in London Heathrow, I was ready to hit the weekend abroad running. I only had 72 hours to say hellos to the Queen, and become one with the Royals.
Even though we had just thrown down 50GBP on 2 Oyster Cards with 20GBP credit on each, we opted for Ubers when we could. To my surprise, Uber was much cheaper than 2 tickets on the Tube. However, one needs data for that luxury… Scurrying between wifi and the uber pickup location, was all a game of roulette- would we hit black, and get a ride, or hit red, and get slapped with yet another cancellation fee?
We chose to stay at Wombats City Hostel London, which was conveniently located, a few short blocks from London’s main attractions. It’s clean and welcoming, and has a super hip downstairs breakfast and bar area.
Our first stop was Leadenhall Market, where a few scenes of Harry Potter were filmed. Unfortunately, it was under construction, although even with the scaffolding and plastic tarps, you could still see the beauty within the market. The shops and pubs were still open, so drinks were had at New Moon before we headed to Borough Market.
Borough Market is AWESOME! It’s a large, indoor/outdoor market with every type of cuisine you can imagine. Even in the middle of winter, people were standing outside, glass of champagne in hand, slurping down oysters.
We bought almond biscotti’s and a ham and cheese croissant to share the next morning from Bread Ahead, before dining at FISH! We got there right before the rush, and couldn’t be more grateful to have gotten a seat. Reading blogs about the Market and the best places for Fish & Chips, I knew FISH! needed to be added to the itinerary. We both had the Haddock with french fries and mushed peas with a bottle of white and it was divine.
Next door to Fish! is a wine and champagne bar, Bedales, that was recommended to me by a friend. I finally understood why so many people chill OUTSIDE, rather than INSIDE of the bars. Bars offer “take-out” prices, up to 50% off. Normally, I’d be all about it, but in the middle of January- I’ll pay the full, and very reasonable, 6GBP for that glass of Prosecco.
Even though the night was brisk, we walked back to the hostel from the Market. We walked over the London Bridge, and did not fall through… and past the Monument of the Great Fire of London, as well as, the Tower of London. Also, one of course needs a photo in an iconic phone booth.
London at night, and by day, is a truly beautiful city.
The next morning, after eating our delicious treats bought from Bread Ahead, we took the Tube to Kensington Palace, where Princess Diana lived, and now William & Kate, amongst other “young Royals”.
Walking through the Gardens and down a long gravel path behind the main “tourist” entrance, we encountered many buildings. I assumed the majority of buildings were storage, “servant’s quarters”, or offices… Little did I know, after some recon back home, they were actually the previous cottages and homes of Harry & Megan, Will & Kate, amongst others.
The Queens Rooms exhibit was temporarily closed, so we were able to explore the Kings Rooms, The Victoria as a child exhibit, and a hallway with design sketches for Diana (with Diana’s personal notes about the design). I loved the room with the crowned jewels, as each piece was dazzling. It was interesting, and a different take on a museum you’d normally come across. Next time, I’ll skip the exhibits and you’ll catch me near the driveway, fan-girling for Will & Kate.
For lunch, we walked through Portobello Market in Notting Hill, until we came across the food stalls and trucks. We opted for Chinese: Sweet and Sour Chicken, as well as, a teriyaki beef.
We then took the tube to Big Ben, which was unfortunately under construction, but still snapped a few photo’s and facetimed our families. From there we went to the 3:00 Evensong Choir at Westminster Abbey. Rather than paying to take a tour of the Abbey, we enjoyed a lovely concert, which is open to the public and complimentary. It was surreal to be seated in such an extravagant and historical setting.
We continued to walk about the city, passing the London Eye (Ferris Wheel), the statue of Winston Churchill, and through St. James’s Park towards Buckingham Palace. We struck a few poses in front of the infamous Palace, before heading to Covent Garden.
There we enjoyed a Happy Hour at Roadhouse (a very American style bar with 2 for 1 cocktails), listened to street musicians, wandered the Apple Market (purchasing a watercolor) and had dinner at the White Lion Pub. With a bottle of Tondeluna Red, I ordered off of their traditional “Pie” menu, served with mashed potatoes and steamed vegetables. If one is looking for traditional English fare in a traditional English Pub, White Lion has all of the charm you and your taste buds are looking for.
On our 2nd and final day in London, we walked along the River Thames, admiring the Tower Bridge.
Tower of London: Fortress, Palace, and Prison with an unbelievable history. Jewels, burial sites and tales of torture and execution. At the Tower of London, we took a guided tour with a Yeoman Warder. Our Yeoman Warder was knowledgeable, quirky, and had an excellent English sense of humor. A guided tour is free of charge with your admission ticket and an absolute must as you’ll want to soak up all of the knowledge. Plan for extra time post your tour, to wander the grounds, including the infamous jewels exhibit and chapel.
Rather than the long lines at TKTS- Leicester Square, I bought tickets for the evening performance of Comedy of a Bank Robbery at The Criterion online.
Doing so, we were able to grab a light lunch and sneak in a nap before our dinner reservations at Brasserie Zedel. We ordered off of the Theatre Pre-fixe menu in the elegant dining room.
As Broadway is to NYC, the West End is to London. One cannot come to NYC or London, without seeing a show. Comedy of a Bank Robbery was beautifully done and provided many laughs. The Criterion Theatre, built in 1873, is an underground theatre that is both, exquisite and cozy. What a fabulous end to our time in London.
Rather than exchanging the extra GBP and Oyster Card in my wallet, I’m putting them aside, as London, I will be returning.
India. We didn’t get through the entire trip unscathed, as there were bumps, and mishaps… but I expected culture shock. I expected being swindled. I expected chaos.
No, I wanted chaos. I wanted my senses awakened.
At Delhi customs, the machine wouldn’t pick up my prints. Each time I laid down my fingers, the man behind the counter would roll his eyes, and say “again”. I half expected him to stamp my passport and just let me through, as Indian after Indian the next booth over seamlessly captured their prints. Finally, by the grace of God, or after a good machine wipe down, they had my prints.
Once through we picked up a SIM Card from Airtel at Arrivals, past baggage, even though the couple behind us were told that they don’t sell that late at night (They’re open 24 hours). It could have been because we had US dollars, and gave them the $10 each that they wanted… I’m unsure how much a SIM card really costs in rupees (or dollars), but for $10 (which “provides unlimited calls throughout India and 1.6gb of data per day- for a 2month duration”), we took the SIM card. I use air quotes around the plan, as we never got the SIM card to actually work and, in the end, I was too “overwhelmed” to call tech support and sort it out. Although, it would have been hilarious to call and receive tech support, from an Indian, while actually IN India. Thankfully, we were able to bum hotspots, if there wasn’t a Wifi option.
Also, when it comes to ATM’s in India, if the first you don’t succeed, try and try again. You’ll eventually find an ATM that will give you cash, but only up to $130 USD (10,000 Indian Rupees) per transaction.
I had ordered a private driver pick up from the airport via Viator, as I figured I didn’t want to get scammed fresh out of the gate, but it turns out it was just a guy with a placard, that put us into a cab…
Driving to our hotel late at night, it was like driving through the streets of Cambodia or Vietnam… Dirt roads, roadside vendors, dilapidated huts, wild drivers… With a nice store or two thrown into the mix… We chose to stay at the Hilton in Saket, and thankfully the hotel and rooms were clean and safe, as well as, attached to a very modern and expansive shopping mall.
Due to the shenanigans at the airport and the drive to the hotel, we arrived close to midnight and our first tour to the Taj Mahal, was a 2:30am pick up.
We were picked up by a handsome driver (Chotu) in the middle of the night, and whisked off to Agra for a sunrise at Taj Mahal. Enroute, we stopped at a local rest stop- and among locals we were, for a traditional, masala chai tea that was served in small, clay pots.
We picked up our guide (Ankur) closer to the Taj Mahal, and made it just minutes after sunrise. We walked through a park, as monkeys, dogs, and cows walked along side us… until we reached the entrance of the grounds (a 42 acre complex) leading up to the Taj Mahal. We then passed the towers where the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s first and third wives are buried.
No wonder, it’s a wonder.
The Taj Mahal is everything you would expect and more. It is picturesque and seems as though you are looking at true perfection. There are amateur photographers there, with professional cameras, asking if you’d like a photo shoot. They’d print out any photo you like for 100 rupees, or about $1.30, or could digitally transfer the pictures to your phone. We chose to have all of the pictures transferred to my phone for 800 rupees (Negotiate!) … out of the 40 oh so, I’d say 2-3 are decent at best, but the mini photo shoot at the Taj was memorable and entertaining. You’ll feel 18 again, at your Senior Year photo shoot. In the end though, just throw your tour guide the extra rupees, as they also do this daily for a living. Ankur’s photo skills=insta worthy. The detail of the buildings are impeccable. In today’s currency it had cost 1 billion dollars to build. Individual gems were used throughout the Taj Mahal to create various floral designs and patterns. Outside of the doorways are inscriptions from the Toran. Inside are the grave sites of Shah Jahan and his 2nd wife, the love of his life, Mumtaz Mahal.
The outlying sandstone buildings are in perfect symmetry (one being a mosque) and the gateway to the Taj is stunning. It was also intriguing to learn how the Taj came to be, the wishes of Mumtaz, as she lay on her death bed, and what came of the family post her death. What a family scandal! Seriously, look it up.
Take a pair of socks with you to the temples in India, as you will be required to take your shoes off. Which makes sense, as the majority of your time in India, you’ll be walking on flattened cow manure.
We took the tram from the Taj Mahal back to the entrance/exit where Chotu was waiting with cold waters. They took us to the Lotus Restaurant for lunch (even though the restaurant was westernized and more so for tourists, we still popped a Travelan), where we ordered garlic naan, basmati rice, butter chicken, and mutton with spinach- all delicious! After lunch, we tried a small handful each of fennel seeds (saunf) with little bits of rock sugar… which is supposedly good for digestion, as well as, a mouth freshener.
We were then taken to a shop where they showed the process of how the gems were placed on the Taj Mahal, and sold pieces that used various gems and semi-precious gems. The pieces were beautiful to see, and by a miracle, they weren’t a hard sell. A “no, thank you” sufficed and we were out of there.
Our last stop was the Baby Taj. The Baby Taj was created years prior, by Shah Jahan’s Mother, as a Mausoleum for her parents. It is near identical to the Taj Mahal, just on a much smaller scale and was fascinating to see and compare/contrast.
Our Taj Mahal tour had come to an end, and we were driven back to Delhi. We popped off at another rest stop for coffee, a sweet lassi, and diet cokes for a refreshing, and caffeinated, pick me up.
With only a few minutes to spare until our next tour, we quickly freshened up and met our driver in the lobby of our hotel. We embarked on the tour I was most excited for- an afternoon of shopping. I had imagined rolling back up to the Hilton… flaunting bags full of shoes, purses, kurtis, sarees, jewelry, housewares and whatever else caught my eye. I brought an extra-large, empty suitcase for this venture. Instead, we were slighted. I don’t want to use the word, “scammed”, as we did visit a local market and Connaught Place (which had streets of stores that you can find in any major city- H&M for example). However, even though a few pieces jumped out to me, we were told not to buy from the local market, as our last stop would be the “best stop”- a textile factory that the government has allowed permission to create and sell authentic pashminas… When we arrived at this “textile factory”, a multi-level, nondescript building off the main road, we were ushered in to the basement and the lights suddenly turned on. There, many fabrics were on display and we were shown where the workers (5 sweating men) produced the “pashminas” amongst other specialty items… Everything was absurdly overpriced, the fabric was stained, and absolutely nothing in this place was genuine, nor authentic. They pushed us to buy $100USD+ “pashminas”, and jewelry that came with “certificates of authenticity”… a “sapphire and emerald” bangle was selling for a mere $30USD, *what a steal*. I bought 2 pairs of pajamas, that you can most likely grab at a Vera Bradley outlet, just to get out of the place.
I ended up “rolling” into the Hilton with one measly grocery bag, which held my PJs and a knock off Apple phone case.
Before leaving for India, I had feared for my safety (due to various mediums and stories relayed), and overpacked the itinerary with tours, guides, and private drivers. As a seasoned traveler, I should have known better… in foreign countries, just like America, there are good and bad. You have to trust yourself, be aware of your surroundings and belongings, and remain alert while out and about. The only piece of advice that was factual… pack toilet paper. That’s no joke.
If I knew then, what I know now, I would have booked a tuk tuk through uber, to wizz me around Delhi to the various local markets for 30 rupees, equivalent to 39 CENTS rather than the extravagant private driver fees we prepaid for.
For our 2nd day in Delhi, we woke before the sun, yet again, for a 19 hour tour to the Ganges River in Rishikesh and Hardiwar, driven by Mr.Sharma, a kind and knowledgeable man. We stopped at a rest area, twice for gas, and at an off-road sugar cane factory, therefore, the drive to the Holy River was 7 hours. Many cars in India are now CNG (Compressed Natural Gas) and do not go over 50mph to conserve gas. There are also SOS buttons at every door, as well as, a fire extinguisher that sat right under my feet. Our minds were totally at ease…
I also began to panic in the early morning hours, as Mr. Sharma couldn’t seem to pick a lane… which worsened as we delved in conversation. I later realized, after we drove in between two lanes the majority of our trip, this was because there are no (or minimal) traffic laws in India… and motorbikes, cars, vans, tuktuks, and actual trucks, whip past one another, so he chose to ride the middle, so that others can pass on the right and left of him.
At some points, even though we were on the highway, and there was clearly a differentiation of traffic pattern, trucks and cars would be driving the wrong direction, straight toward us. “Idiots” are driver would yell. This is when we learned there are 3 things you need in India. “A good horn, good brakes, and good luck”.
A few hours into our drive, we pulled into a tourist rest area, with Western toilets and we were able to try a traditional Indian breakfast. Paratha. It is similar to a flatbread, with a potato and masala filling accompanied with butter and cup of thin yogurt.
A few miles from the rest area, Mr. Sharma pulled off the side of the road. I thought a flat tire, but he opened our doors for us. He had brought us to a sugar cane factory. Again, what I expected, was not what we saw. It was so cool to see, but equally horrifying. A handful of men used obsolete machinery to distract the juices from the sugar cane, which was sent through a garden hose to a large, boiling hole in the ground. There, another man would begin to clean the juices, removing dirt? Manure? It would filter through two other holes, the furthest hole, being the cleanest/most filtered. They would then take the boiling, filtered sugar cane juice and put it on a castor iron pan (10-foot circumference) and move it around until they were able to create individual sized, solid balls of brown sugar- which are then sold throughout India. Flies flew over the finished product. Actually, flies swarmed the entire area and all around us. This is why no one should be ballsy enough to attempt street food.
We were so intrigued by the chaotic driving and scenery. At times, my head was spinning because I wanted to see it all, in every direction… a family of 5 on a single motorbike (including an infant, toddler, young child, and parents), vans full of adults and children (hanging out of windows), herds of cows walking the highway…various road side stops, gas fill-ups, and passing by roadside villages. At last, we were in Rishikesh and picked up our tour guide, Naveen.
Rishikesh, also known as, the Land of the Gods.
Our first stop was the Rishikesh Ashram, which is a sacred space for mediation, chanting, and spiritual awakening. They follow the motto, “Love. Serve. Remember” and the teachings of Neem Karoli Baba. This Ashram is one of the many temples devoted to this Baba. He has influenced many including Steve Jobs and Larry Brilliant (who both came to India to practice at his temple) and Julia Roberts, amongst others.
The temple is clean and peaceful, as many chanted and meditated within the various rooms. They were far from thrilled, listening to Naveen explain things to us.
At the end of your visit, you are given a bowl of *chana dal halwa* which resembles brown sugar with chickpeas atop. I hesitantly took a few small bites remembering the sugar cane factory we just came from… it tasted mildly bland, with a hint of sweetness.
We then went and drove through the Himalaya’s, stopping near a bridge which we crossed over. As we did, we saw many rafting enthusiasts making their way along the Ganges River. Quite a few had fallen out due to the intense conditions- some were able to clasp on to the raft, others let themselves go with the flow, and some were luckily pulled up on to the raft and CPR was immediately performed. No, thank you.
We went to another smaller temple, off the beaten path surrounded by small pools of unsanitary water. They also had many large and smaller statues for people to stop and worship… which Naveen did. At each one. Dee and I just stood around him, and I wasn’t sure if I should nod my head, make the sign of the cross, or what not… all I knew was that I was not throwing my body on to the floor, stretching out my arms, and kissing a ground full of germs.
We were driven back into town where we were dropped off to walk along the narrow streets, again alongside cows. We popped into a few local stores, including a jewelry store with an astrologist. I called my Mom at 4am Chicago time, demanding my exact birth time… I wasn’t playing around. I gave him my birth date, time, and location and he provided me details of my future, what colors are best for me, and stones that will illuminate positivity in my everyday life… Next thing I knew, jewels were all over the place… sapphires, rose quartz in gold, moon stones, citrine, topaz. That “free” reading, comes with a hefty price tag. After paying for a rose quartz bracelet and moon stone ring, I added him on insta. I recorded our session, so if 2023 doesn’t pan out like he predicted, I’m asking for a refund.
We crossed the Lakshman Jhula Bridge, which was a bit frightening, as it swung with the herds of people… and stray cattle… and wild monkeys. I panicked a quarter of the way through. At this point it’s safe to assume there aren’t any safety guidelines going on in India. I literally had to push past people as they LEISURELY strolled the bridge. Apparently, I was the only one worried about ending up on the nightly news, being the American at the wrong place, at the wrong time.
Across the bridge, we came across numerous markets, and the loveliest café: Little Buddha Café. I was hoping to make it to Nepal this trip, but due to Indian Visa entries, we weren’t able. Having lunch at the open café overlooking the river, is what I thought Nepal would FEEL like… Open air concept, rock jams/easy listening playing, ceiling fans on full speed, sitting a top floor pillows and cushioned lounge chairs, with Tibetan prayer flags strung throughout. Rishikesh is a holy land, therefore there is no meat or alcohol consumed within the city. We ordered lemon-mint ice beverages, avocado toast, and a vegetable sizzler.
Just give me a month in Rishikesh (and Goa)… practicing yoga and meditation, eating vegan, and drinking daily kombucha… I’d come back a whole new lady…
We then bought Tibetan Wool shawls, blankets, and scarves, as well as, a few “hippie” headbands from the local vendors. I read about the art of negotiation in India, and loved haggling in China, but found myself paying what was asked at the local markets as I thought the prices were reasonable. For the exception of the moon ring, which I got taken for a ride on.
We continued on, and took a path less traveled. Dirt, garbage, tents, and outdoor kitchens… where cows strolled in and out of temples… and where you definitely had to watch where you walk… or what you walk along side of. I never feared the stray animals, until one cow in particular, had LITERALLY explosive diarrhea inches from my sandaled feet. As Naveen and Dee had walked ahead, they missed the incident and my keeling over, dry heaving response.
Rather than crossing over another bridge, we took a ferry across to our car. We loaded up on the small boat with numerous locals, and were approached by a few, sweet teenagers who wanted to practice their English.
I wasn’t going to do it… not a toe, not a finger… but there I was dipping my whole hand in the Ganga River as we cruised across. Wiping away all of my sins, and hoping for all the magic.
In the car, I drenched myself with disinfectant.
At Triveni Ghat, we witnessed the Ganga Aarti on the banks of the River Ganges. At first, I was disappointed we weren’t going to be apart of the prayer ritual in Hardiwar, that attracts nearly 10,000 people each night… however, attending the smaller scale ritual in Rishikesh, was much more intimate and inviting. We sat along the steps inside the Treveni Ghat and watched in awe the “Ganga aarti” (Maha-aarti) performed to recited hymns, as participants offered fire and rose petals to the River. After I placed my petals in the Ganga, I placed my hands over a fire before dipping my finger into the ashes. Before I could place the ashes on my own forehead, a Hindu approached and placed the ashes on my forehead while chanting. I was then brought to the entrance of the temple where a Hindu man painted sandalwood paste on my forehead using a carnation flower as the brush, and finished by placing a bindi (red dot) in the middle. I sent the video to Grandma, who had assumed I had converted.
After the Aarti (offering), everyone participates in spiritual dances to Hindu bhajan music. The entire experience was peaceful, powerful, and unifying.
Our last stop was Hardiwar. The magnitude compared to Rishikesh was intense. I can’t even imagine 10,000 people gathering for the ritual and curious if the take away would have been the same. We walked through the bustling night market and along the Ganga River. We were 15 hours into our tour, and after minimal sleep the past nights, we were exhausted. We were thrilled to be back in the car with Sharma. We wrapped ourselves in our new shawls, and took a little nap… all the way back to the Hilton.
On our final day in Delhi, after sleeping more than 3 hours, we packed up and headed down to Starbucks. We also were able to indulge in the complimentary, continental breakfast at India Grill at the Hilton… where we ordered Belgian Waffles and pancakes, as well as, a Dosa (Indian crepe) with potato and masala filling. I have to admit… even though we were only two full days in, I was ecstatic for an American breakfast dish accompanied by a Starbucks Venti.
We ordered an Uber- for 30 CENTS- and our Uber TukTuk came and whisked off to Miniso. How I love Miniso and have missed it since my days in Beijing. Miniso was a staple in my life, and a place where I bought hair and beauty products, fun accessories, and random items that were not needed, but wanted.
I stocked up on new face masks, face wipes, shower items, and an elephant “plushie” for one of the kiddo’s back home.
We tuktuk’d back to the hotel in perfect timing as our driver (Faeem) for our farewell Delhi tour had arrived. We loaded our luggage and headed towards Old Delhi to meet with our guide Riyaz.
In Old Delhi, we rode a TukTuk through town, as it was more accessible to move about the traffic. We visited the Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) where we (women) were provided robes for a small fee, to walk about the Mosque. The same architect who constructed the Taj Mahal, had built the Jama Masjid and the details and structure were very similar. We were not able to go within the Mosque, as tourists/non-Muslims are not allowed, but from the outside looking in, it was very beautiful. We were told that Muslims in Delhi were to live within 3 minutes of the Mosque… as Riyaz pointed out his home to us.
Pappa-Papparazzi…. We were “famous” in Delhi. Everyone wanted photos with us, and at times, we would notice people following us or angling their phones in various way to capture us in their picture. At one point, on the plane to Goa, I saw the 2 men in the row ahead of us, tilt their phones a certain way to ensure I was in the photo— I then purposefully waved and posed with a big, cheesy grin on my face.
We then rode through the congested Spice Market. Men carried hundreds of pounds of spices atop their heads, and others pushed thousands of pounds on wheel barrows. We asked to stop and were told only a few places package the spices acceptable for travel… We bought various teas: mango, blueberry, white, masala chai, as well as, spices for cooking butter and tandoori chicken. We were told this was not apart of the tour, but this store felt set up for tourists. I later checked my Credit Card account and saw that I was incorrectly (and almost double) charged. What they added on their calculator is not what was charged. They also told us all teas were 560 rupees each, but after check out informed me that certain teas I purchased were 1800 rupees each… tricky tricky.
We continued on, passing by the Red Fort and the Shri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir Temple. We all met back up with Faeem, and the air-conditioned car (Alleluia!) and drove to Raj Ghat where Gandhi was cremated. Since his cremation, many presidents from around the world have come to pay their respects and each have planted a tree in the garden. It is very beautiful and captivating.
Agraden ki Baoli was completely unexpected. From the street it looks like a single wall, but stepping inside you find a 60-meter long, 15-meter wide step well, and has 108 steps. There is no history as to when or who built it, but it is believed to have been commissioned by King Agrasen in 3000BC and rebuilt in the 14th century. It has served as a community for locals to collect water, bathe, and a place to provide shade in high temperatures.
The Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, known for its association with the eighth Sikh Guru, was once a palace. There everyone must cover their head and not only take off their shoes prior to entering, but also wash their feet in the communal area. We were advised that it wouldn’t be sanitary to wash our feet, as the water is shared with thousands of others… and therefore, we weren’t able to access the temple. We walked around the temple, which has multiple entrances, to represent the temple is open to all people and religions. They also serve food for all people in the “langer”. I wish I wasn’t so scared of (or prone to) infection, because I can only imagine how breath taking the interior would have been.
After many stops, we had lunch in Connaught Place: butter chicken, naan, and rice… clearly our go to meal choice.
We stopped by the Gate of India, where the names of those who lost their lives in World War 1 are inscribed. The structure is comparable to the Arc de Triomphe and amazing at sunset.
The Lotus Temple was closing for the evening and we made it through the entrance with a few minutes to spare. We walked towards the temple, but weren’t able to go inside as it has been closed since Covid. The temple is a Baha’i House of Worship and was built in 1986. It can seat 1,300 people, and hold 2,500. Inside there are no pictures, statues, or altars. The gardens are well kept, and all of the caretakers are volunteers from the temple. It reminded me of the Sydney Opera House and I am so, so glad we made it in time to see.
Again, people came running in all directions to have their photo taken with us… at one point, we could see a very pregnant woman racing toward us as she saw the cameras out, and threw her phone (camera) at her husband as she jumped in the photo amix strangers.
Last stop stop: Delhi Airport. I thought China was difficult. India… brutal. You can’t even get in the airport without a boarding pass… which in reality, is excellent for the safety of those traveling… However, for two ladies without data, and no electronic boarding pass, this proved to be a challenge. We needed to find the ticket office, to have our tickets printed. Once in, we lucked out. They accepted our luggage on Air India without too much issue. We were schlepped off to “re-organize” and “lose a few kilos”, but we were able to stuff our carry-ons. I don’t understand how we lost water weight** and still were over the limit.
** Advice told to us via blogs and actual accounts… that in India, vendors and stores will scam tourists by filling used water bottles with tap water and then glue back on the tops… so we each loaded our suitcases with bottles of water from home. I can only imagine what TSA thought as our checked baggage went through… Truth- no need to pack water… just be sure to buy from a trustworthy shop… hotel lobbies, grocery stores, etc. Listen for the “click” as you turn the top. Also, at every restaurant we asked about THEIR water filtration system… and were always met with the same annoyed look and response, that yes, their water is filtered.**
There weren’t many people on our flight, so we were able to spread out, and we quickly passed out. I dreamt we had landed, so when I awoke I thought we were on the runway about to pull into our gate. I was about to wake up Dee to tell her we arrived, but then turbulence hit and I realized we still had a bit of ways to go…
When we eventually landed at 1am, we walked along an “under the sea” themed carpeted walkway, and past gigantic lite brite’s on the Airport walls.
I saw our driver from Serenity Resort outside, as he quickly flashed our placard, and Dee asked, “Are you sure you saw your name?” as we entered his car. Moments before, I had dreamt we had landed, and now I was mind f*ed that I also imagined seeing my name and got into a car with stranger danger.
It was an hour and a half drive to South Goa, and I was on full alert the majority of the ride as Dee slept. When she awoke a quarter of a way through, she couldn’t have opened her eyes at a less perfect time. We were just turning on to a dirty and desolate street, in the middle of no-where with a group of men just standing around at 2am in a well-lit parking lot. She was like a deer in headlights and looked at me with concern. I calmly told her it was fine, but internally, I was losing it. Thankfully, we kept on driving, right past the loitering crew.
Then I saw a Catholic Church, and a few blocks later, a cross, then a makeshift chapel/shrine. I immediately calmed down, as I told myself we were in God’s state. I took out my rosary, held it tight, and slept until we pulled up to the resort.
As it was after 2:30 AM when we arrived, we were led through the sand, with a staff member who carried our suitcases a top his head. He led us into our beach hut, and turned away. It was everything I wanted it to be. A bed with mosquito net covering… simple… a makeshift outdoor-ish bathroom/shower… AC… and the most adorable porch.
Pure exhaustion had taken over. Shortly into my sleep, something awoke me: a flashing light in the corner of the room. Blinking lights equate to a warning. I opened the curtains with the Arabian Sea spread before me and saw numerous blinking red and blue lights. Typhoon season doesn’t start until June… but were we all going to be washed away? I went out on the porch and there wasn’t any activity; no one abandoning their huts, rushing to safety… But to be safe, I WhatsApp’d the manager I had contact with. Go figure, there was no response for the crazy American… There was nothing left to do, but to slip on my eye mask and go back to sleep… for 2 hours until I woke to check on the “weather situation”, which was sunny and clear. At that point I was up, and chalked the light up to needing to be changed. I facetimed my Grandma, who told me my face was swollen and I looked tired. Well, ain’t that the truth.
& Good Morning to you, Jesus! I’m telling you, South Goa is all about the Big Guy. Leaving our resort was a statue, with a picture of Jesus, and people were leaving offerings-plants, flowers… You couldn’t walk a few feet without a shrine of some sorts.
I picked our food spots based on TripAdvisor reviews. Our first breakfast was at Zest… For the girl who normally orders the most carb heavy item on the menu, with a side of bacon, I chose the pineapple kombucha and the pink smoothie bowl with fresh fruit and granola- which had me feeling good inside and out… I’m telling you, give me a month here, it’d be all I need.
We walked down to Krishna Massage which is highly ranked, and each got the 90minutes pamper session. It was a massage, with a hot bundle treatment. At first the “hot bundles” shocked me, but after the first hot “pounding” of the rice bag filled with herbs, I was yearning for the heat on my muscles. All in, with a generous tip, it was $32. If you aren’t getting daily massages while in Asia, you are doing something wrong.
Walking to and from we stopped into some of the mom and pop clothing and souvenir shops. Some of the boutiques had really nice jewelry and boho chic beach wear, especially the one attached to Zest.
Back at the resort, everyone was hanging out at the beach bar and restaurant. Only the cows and I sprawled out on the sand, working on our summer glow. The waves were intense, but with my private life guard nearby, I risked it… up to my waist. The man in red, didn’t seem to be very “alert” if a save was needed.
After a bit of R&R, I rejoined Dee at the bar, where we ordered a bottle of champagne and pastas. The afternoon shrimp and chile pasta was some of the best I’ve had.
Thankfully, that didn’t deter us from going to Kopi Desa for a late dinner. On the way we stopped at a local shop for souvenirs and I got some fun trinkets for family and friends back home. Luckily, I had Dee and her hard-core negotiating skills, although I almost cringed a bit over the haggling… he tried telling us he was closing for the season after that night, but that was just part of his schtick as we waved hello’s to him the next afternoon.
I gleefully walked the rest of the way to the restaurant with a bag full of fun gifts We ordered a round of cocktails- a mojito and daquiri, and Dee ordered the pork chops and I the spare ribs with corn, fries, and coleslaw. The portions were ridiculous… I kept eating and there was still so much meat! Tyson, the restaurant pup scoured the restaurant and knew to perch up next to me. He was the absolute sweetest. At the end of my meal I scraped the sauce from my pork and asked the wait staff if we could give some of my leftovers to Tyson. He had a feast!
I then took the rest of my pork with me in a napkin… Which I passed out to the numerous strays on the way… more like chucked it out of the moving tuktuk’s window. It made my heart happy watching the dogs dig in.
I had hoped to have ONE morning over my Spring Break to sleep in, without an alarm set, but the “warning” light continued to flash and the lure of a Goa-n sunrise got me up as the sun rose. I walked the beach with other sunrise enthusiasts and enjoyed the quiet.
A bit later, as we walked to Mandala Café, we saw parents picking up their children from St. Anne’s school. It was the 2nd day in a row that we saw kids leaving school around 10am. They must get out early due to the heat as the summer season was just beginning for them. Sign me up for that gig. I’d love a 10am dismissal, any day.
At Mandala Café we ordered an Espresso and Iced Chai as we relaxed in their open aired restaurant with ceiling and floor fans blowing in our direction. The café is vibrant and full of good energy. All of their food is made fresh and all vegetarian or vegan. We shared the dutch pancakes with strawberries and Nutella, and attempted the overnight oats… unfortunately, we didn’t get far with the oats. We finished off with a vegan tiramisu and a to-go rose brownie. As we ate, many cows wandered about, and I continue to question how they know not to come into the restaurants. I saw one of the school girls giving them water, and have been told that the people of India take care of the one billion stray animals including cows, dogs, and monkeys. Well, thank God for that.
I absolutely loved the feel at the cafes where we had breakfast… both stunning in their own way. Zest was chic, where Mandala had me wanting to trade in my jcrew for elephant pants and loose tie dye.
Both were frequented by those staying in Goa to attend Yoga retreats, and the instructors/participants suggested we get that day’s massage at the Agonda Cottages- Kerala Ayurvedic.
Rather than walking back in the intense sun, we called for a tuktuk. At the resort, we lounged about, going down to the beach, and beginning to pack for our final adventure (or so we thought).
We made massage appointments for 4pm that afternoon and each took yet another 90-minute session, but this time along with my 60minute massage, I had a 30min shirodhara treatment. I laid there as my masseuse poured oil over my head. It is supposed to improve sleep quality, manage insomnia, and lessen anxiety… yet as I laid there (naked), I felt my anxiety increase. We’ll see if I’ll eventually manage a good night’s sleep.
Both Krishna and Kerala were excellent, and are a must when in Agonda!
After the massages, Dee finally got her Indian wish- a ride on a motorbike… by the spa owner. Pure joy!
Dinner reservations were at 8pm, and even after 3 hair washes, I still looked as though I SHOULD have been one who lives in elephant pants.
We hired a tuktuk to take us to Palolem Beach, about 15minutes from Agonda, for dinner at Ourem88. A large outdoor patio with candle light under twinkling lights. The perfect date night spot… or “friend date” spot! The menu also included beef fillet! I thought to myself, ‘I’m not sure how this import is possible’… (as ‘sacred’ cows laid on the dirt road outside of the picket fence).. but I ordered it, and devoured it… and pray that we were truly eating beef.
We ordered a bottle of red, each a beef fillet and sides, and phenomenal desserts… a toffee sticky pudding and lemon tart. The affordable prices alone should make anyone want to travel to Goa.
Back at Serenity, I drank a Kingfish, while being swooned by the live musical entertainment for the night. The cutest pup and her little puppies chased each other throughout the sand filled lobby. I could have zen’d out, if it weren’t for the fact we were flying out only a few hours later.
Our drive to the airport started at 3:20am on our last day in India. We were flying into Mumbai for 11 hours, and 8 of them were spent on an all-day tour of Mumbai. Mumbai… just walking out of the airport, had a totally different feel then Delhi. There were cafes, outdoor plazas, drivers with placards (but ones that don’t yell or harass you), palm trees, and a sky that was actually blue.
We met Dipendra and Fahim at the Starbucks, and were driven around in Dipd’s brand new sedan! He was so proud, and we felt so fortunate to be his first passengers.
We drove into Mumbai over the Bandra–Worli Sea Link. What a stunning piece of infrastructure! It is a 5.6 km long, 8-lane wide bridge that links Bandra in the Western Suburbs of Mumbai with Worli in South Mumbai and is the 4th largest bridge in India.
We began our day at Dhobi Ghat, an open-air laundromat built in 1890 during the British Raj. About 500k pieces of are sent there each day (sometimes by wheelbarrow, bicycle, on people’s backs, etc) by businesses, hospitals, and lesser known hotels. Larger chain hotels and wealthier individuals once had contracts with Dhobi Ghat, but have since built laundromats in their hotels or within their homes.
The Dhobi’s first sort the clothes according to barcode (owner), soak them in soapy water, beat the clothes on a flogging stone, and finally, intricately place the garments on a rope, in a way that is precise and expeditious. 7,000 individuals work at the Ghat per day, for 18 to 20 grueling hours, and clothes are returned to the owner the next business day throughout the city.
For example, to have a saree washed at the Ghat would cost 5 rupees, equivalent to 6 cents. That includes pick up and drop off.
From what I learned, the Dhobi Ghat is quite profitable, despite the low washing costs. However, when you put into perspective how many washers there are, the annual income can still be quite low. Based on how many contracts washers have, and with who, some washers make much more than others. Dhobi’s are apart of the lowest caste system, but considered one of the higher subcategories.
There is also a sense of community at the Dhobi Ghat, where two hundred families live. Each family lives a “hut” or “container” that averages 150sq feet. Families of 2 to 5+ people live in each. They have communal bathrooms. Outside of the washing, you can see children playing, men giving each other haircuts and shaving one another’s beards, women conversing… It’s all rather beautiful.
The caste system in India fascinates me. I had many questions for Fahim and Dipd, and they told personal stories and provided much knowledge. The caste system is what you are born into, your last name. I asked, “What if one of the Dhobi’s children, created the next Apple?” They would remain in the same caste, regardless of accomplishment.
Dipd was born into the Kshatriyas: The second caste, known traditionally as “Warriors”. Fahim and Dipd both laughed when I asked if people date prior to marriage… I found quite a few eligible bachelors while “playing” on Tinder… They told me yes, but secretly and without their parents’ knowledge, nor consent. Also, you are not allowed to marry outside of your caste, and Dipd told me personal stories of dating while growing up outside his caste, and his Father ending the relationships.
Fahim explained to me “honor killings” and I am still and will always be appalled. Love marriages exist in about 5% of marriages in India, however you are never to marry outside your caste. If you have a love marriage within your caste, your families will threaten to shun you. Most will eventually welcome you back, especially after children are born. If you marry outside your caste, your parents or another family member may put “a hit” on you. A few month ago, a woman with a successful and well- known father married a man in a lower caste system. Her father put “a hit” on her and her new husband, and she went to all social media platforms, posting if she and her husband turned up dead, it was her father who had them murdered. The history and statistics of “honor killings” are absolutely horrifying and inhumane.
Although, families are becoming more laxed with arranged marriages, as parents are now waiting until their children are ready to wed- whether it be their child wants to have a career, become financially stable, or live their dream (Sharma- our driver on our tour of the Ganga River- his middle daughters dream is to become a Bollywood star, living in Mumbai, and asked that her Father wait a few years, until her late 20’s to arrange her marriage. His eldest daughter will be married in the next year or two, but they have already chosen the family/husband for her 6 years ago. Both his daughter and future Son-In-Law are in their final years of law school, have met, and are “talking/going out to lunches”. He laughed, saying, “I hope so!” when we asked if they loved one another.
Most parents also now give their child the choice of their future spouse, where it used to be they met them the day of their wedding. The parents will arrange the matches, and the children will have their say in if it is a good match or to move on to the next.
Forget temples, historical events/people/places, I just wanted to know more about arranged marriages… especially since my Tinder was blowing up with Indian singles. Mind blown.
As we drove past a large statue in a turnabout, we were told about “Dabbawala’s” aka “one who carries a box”… and it hit me, that DoorDash was created on something that has been in the works for over 130 years. The Dabbawallas pick up the food from the home or a restaurant in the late morning, drop off the ‘canister’ with the meal to the workplace/client, pick up the canister in the afternoon, and return the empty canister to the home or restaurant at end of day. This began in 1890, to ensure the people did not go hungry at work, and received food to their tastes, ie home cooked meals.
Personally, I don’t understand the need for the afternoon canister pickup and drop off… Wouldn’t it be more efficient to drop off the warm food, and just let the individual bring home their own canister? Food for thought.
There are 5,000 Dabbawala’s in Mumbai and the daily service only charges $12-$15usd per month, which is equivalent to what we sometimes pay for one meals service charges, taxes, and tip. 200k lunches are delivered each day.
We drove around Billionaire’s Row, Altamount Road, which in America, looks like a typical middle-class neighborhood. Some condo complexes even look worn down, a far cry from a price tag of millions each month.
We walked past the 2nd most expensive residence in the World (the 1st being Buckingham Palace), Atilia, owned by Mukesh Ambani. It is a 568 foot skyscraper, 27 floors, and has an ice cream parlor, a movie theatre, a temple, a garage that can hold 168 cars, and a snow room (which blows snow around the clock, whether it is occupied or not). After taking a few minutes to google stalk this family, I realized his son went to Purdue the same years I was there… what was I doing? Just another missed opportunity.
At Malabar Hill there is a children’s park (Kamala Nehru Park), stunning views of the city, and the Municipal Water Works where a beautiful garden was constructed atop the Reservoir in 1880.
Next to the Reservoir is a Tower of Silence. A circular structure built by the Zoroastrians for exposure of human corpses. The corpses are taken here, brought within the hole by the caretakers, where vultures and other scavengers, consume the flesh. Days, or weeks later, they will move the skeletal remains to another area to wither down.
Onto Gandhi’s Mumbai Residence from 1917-1934. They have recently turned it into a museum, with a library, photographs, artwork, and his bedroom has been preserved. The artifacts chosen to display were captivating.
Before lunch, we drove along Marine Drive, taking a few pictures with the vast skyline.
I asked to lunch at Leopold’s Café. A Café that “tourists love to hate”. Irani’s opened Leopold’s in 1871, named after King Leopold of Belgium. In 2008, it was one of the first sites of the terrorist attacks on November 26th, killing 10 people, before the gunman went down the street to the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, which was the main target of the attacks. Unlike the other sites, Leopold’s left the bullets and some of the damage, untouched.
Leopold’s is also famous as it was mentioned in the novel Shantaram and its sequel The Mountain Shadow… Or some people just go for the continental cuisine (We had the butter chicken, garlic naan, rice, wonton soup, Kingfisher beer and chocolate opium for dessert), mouthwatering dessert display, and beer towers. Cheers!
We then trekked the short distance to the Gateway Of India and the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. The Gateway of India was constructed to celebrate the visit of King George V in 1911- the first British Monarch to visit India. However, construction did not start until 1913, and was only completed in 1924. ‘The Taj’ Mahal Palace Hotel has variations of history, but was opened in 1903 and commissioned by Jamsetji Tata. It is a Five Star hotel and has welcomed very famous guests.
We drove past churches, the stock exchange, and the University of Mumbai before our final destination: Victoria Station, now known as, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. What a gorgeous piece of architecture!! Naveen and I walked through the underground tunnel, past numerous stands and shops, through herds of people, before we entered the grandiose station. Every detail stands out and is exquisite… the mini carvings of animals on the pillars, the arches, and tiles. It truly looks like a grand palace. The construction began in 1878 and was completed on the 50th jubilee of Queen Victoria’s rule. In the 1950’s the statue of Queen Victoria was removed from the exterior, central focal point, and in 1996 the stations name was changed, to further remove themselves from the British.
Naveen was telling me how crowded the train cars get and I couldn’t quite understand the magnitude until he showed me images on google… people hanging out of windows, doors, and even atop the train cars… Naveen used to take similar risks, but now that he has children to feed at home, he now ensures to have a space INSIDE of the train. When I googled more about this, in 2020, 12,000 railway passengers were killed (from falling out of the train or being run over), which equates to 32 people per day. Some government official needs to start doing their job.
We said our goodbyes to Naveen, as he’d cautiously be taking the train home, and Dipd took over as guide and driver. He drove us past the largest slum in Mumbai- Dharavi, and from the outside, it is not how I imagined. It is about 520 acres, with a population of one million people. There are 5,000 businesses and 15,000 single room factories within Dharavi. The slum is lined with these shops, and above is where the families live. Even though there are many businesses and factories, the income per family is still extremely low. Those that live in Dharavi suffer from poverty, illness, pollution, amongst other factors. Tours of the slum are provided by residents and tour companies, but it would not feel right… it would break my heart to wander their streets.
Nearing Mumbai’s airport, we asked Dipd if he would take us to a local grocery store. Dee and I always stop at a grocery store during our travels, as it is the best way to bring back local goodies for our family, friends and my students. I picked up cookies, lays chips- Indian Masala Magic flavor, Indian tikki masala versions of “Cheetos” and “Doritos”, mango candies and teas. The products are always a huge hit back home and it’s always a memory in itself to shop alongside true locals.
It was a lovely day… If you ever find yourself in Mumbai, be sure to spend your days with LindaTours.
We unluckily had to fly back to Delhi, as United canceled all US flights from Mumbai shortly before our trip. Once in Delhi, the pollution, dirtiness, and stank hit hard. We landed in a terminal that required us to take a dilapidated bus that reeked of exhaust, and lord only knows what filth we were sitting on, to the correct terminal. We stood in a short line and on the window it said, women rode free, but we were still confronted by the Indian “police” men with rifles, for a few rupees/ticket. I was over all of the nonsense and flat out told them, the sign reads “women are free” and that we literally, have no money left. We are going home.
Again, Indian airports are difficult… without a printed boarding pass, and especially when flying stand by. Unlike other airports, India doesn’t allow you to check in or even through customs or security. You are to check in one hour prior, and if granted a seat, rush through the lines and hope you catch your flight. That’s if they even care enough to put you on a flight in the first place. With 45+ open seats and first on the stand by list, we thought for sure, 17 hours later we’d be sitting pretty in Chicago. Joke was on us, they said maybe tomorrow night we’d catch a seat, or the next night… I lost my shit. Complete meltdown. They also mentioned if we wanted to get home, we’d have to find our own way, without further explanation. So, resort to Orbitz and their $4,000 one-way flights home?!? There was not a SINGLE chance I was going back out into that smog. India, you were an amazing and cultural experience, but you’re one and done.
They also didn’t tell us when we first arrived at the airport, that hey, maybe you should try for the 11:30pm flight to Newark? Now it was 1am, and I was stuck in Delhi.
I went up to the Air India-Star Alliance counter, threw down my credit card, and asked for the next flight out of Delhi. I booked the 2:30am flight to Paris. I boarded a plane that threw out 1970’s vibes and hoped for the best on the 9 hour + flight to Paris.
Peace out India and to those traveling to India, I wish you good brakes, a good horn, but most importantly, good luck.
I was once a gal who thrived on strict itineraries, and sometimes I still do… however, my weekend in Portugal was last minute and allowed for more spontaneous sites and adventures.
Arriving in Lisbon, I was grateful that I was able to catch a public bus right outside of Arrivals for $2E that arrived 1 block from my hostel. There are many other options, including an Airport Express, but they are not yet operational post Covid and many people were confused and waiting on a bus that was not coming. Check updated schedules and google maps for the easiest route to get into the city.
I chose Lisbon Destination Hostel for its location and convenience as it is located in Rossi Station. It’s clean, hip, and offers pod style beds for privacy. They also have a sister property that has a rooftop pool, and both hostels host plenty of fun daily and evening activities. I loved their unique and open lobby, and how friendly all were… an awesome experience.
Arriving early, I was able to freshen up and store my luggage before I set out to walk the town. I first stopped to admire the Elevador de Santa Justa. It was built in 1902 and it connects the lower streets with the higher streets. I then headed towards Pink Street, popping into various boutiques (the ceramic and tile shops were exquisite), and the oldest bookstore in the World: Livraria Bertrand, founded in 1732, according to the Guinness World Records. It was as if you were going through a tunnel with pop offs into different genres. I picked up a novel from their small English section, as well as, an adorable children’s book which guides them through the sites of Lisbon. Both books I had stamped that they were bought from Bertrand’s. There is a beautiful Basilica next to Bertrand: Basilica of Our Lady of the Martyrs. It was nice to take a few, quiet minutes from the lively streets of the Chiado neighborhood.
On Pink Street, as it was early afternoon, there were numerous outdoor tables available at their many restaurants and bars. I ordered sangria and side plates at Rio Grande: Olives, a traditional soft cheese, and bread. Later in the afternoon and into the night, Pink Street overflows with people, becoming quite the night scene.
I then wandered over to Cais do Sodré, and relaxed along the Tagus River. It was so beautiful to relax in their adirondack chairs and loungers overlooking the water, watching the boats pass and the scenic backgrounds.
I back tracked to Carmo Convent, a former Catholic Convent. The ruined arches are a reminder of the worst day in Portugal history which took place on All Saints Day, November 1, 1755. The magnitude 9 earthquake left 85% of the city in ruins and killed upwards of 100,000 people. It was stunning, a site not to be missed. The exhibits, artwork and artifacts that are displayed are fascinating.
I decided to walk the winding “hills” back to the hostel. The hostel had advertised a “Fado & Dinner” walking tour that evening through Destination Tours. A small group of people representing 8 countries walked the streets of Lisbon, where Fado was originated. We popped off at various scenic spots (including Castle Hill & Portas Do Sol), listening to history and stories, between the neighborhoods, Mouraria and Alfama. We ended the evening, enjoying a traditional Portuguese dinner while listening to talented Fado singers and musicians. I chose the Cod Fish with Eggs. It was not what I had expected (in the best way), and was surprisingly delicious. It reminded me of a breakfast hash brown casserole, with bites of cod fish. I accompanied it with a glass of vinho verde (green wine). It was such a beautiful evening, that ended around midnight and the walk back through the streets and alleys of Lisbon was enjoyable and safe for a solo traveler.
The next morning, I took a stroll near my hostel and indulged in Portuguese delicacies. I ordered Pastel de Nata’s at Manteigaria on Augusta Street. I’d fly back to Portugal just for those delicious egg custard tart pastries… I wish I had the time to go to Belem and try them at Pasteis de Belem, as I heard by many they are the best- it’s already been added to my itinerary for the next time I visit Lisbon!
I then had lunch at Cerve Jaria Ramiro. It was recommended by friends who used to live in Lisbon, and it was by far the most incredible meal… I ordered the Gambas a la Aguillo (Shrimps on Garlic) and the Prego (Steak) sandwich with a ½ bottle of Rose. Definitely come with an appetite, and don’t load up on Pastel de Nata’s prior 😉 My communal table mates suggested the Scarlet Shrimps for my next visit.
I then took one of the many buses to Fatima. From the bus station there are blocks of hotels. I booked through Orbitz the Hotel Lux, and being one of the most luxurious hotels in town only set me back $65 for a suite. I took some time to relax at their pool, and then walked the 2 blocks to the religious site.
I stopped into a few stores along the way, picking up rosaries, holy water, and a candle for the evening procession.
I walked along the Recint admiring the many statues of Saints before entering the impressive Basilica. Unfortunately, I had forgotten that the tombs of Francisco and Jacinta were in the Basilica.
At 6:30 I attended mass in the Chapel of the Apparitions, and then lit candles. As I had time before the Rosary and Candlelight Procession, I went back to the hotel for a 30min relaxation massage. It was lovely and well needed after hiking the hills of Lisbon.
At 8:30, was the Rosary which was said in multiple languages and absolutely beautiful. I can only imagine the scene and the crowd during times prior to Covid.
The entire evening was serene and moving.
Due to my bus leaving early the next morning, I was unable to take part in the Via Sacre (Holy Way)” the site of Our Lady’s 4th apparition, the site where the children received their first and third visit of the Angel of Peace, and the homes of the little Shepherds.
When leaving the bus station back in Lisbon, I shopped at LIDL for souvenirs- pastel de nata’s, face creams/serums, and wine. While abroad I always look for an Aldi or Lidl for fun finds.
With my luggage and bags of goodies, I uber’ed back to Lisbon Destination Hostel. I freshened up and began the journey to Sintra. Sintra: what a colorful and magical town… I bought the daily bus pass for $10 (Quick tip: sit at the furthest train car, so you can be one of the first to exit and first in line for the city bus), and rode to the first stop: Pena Palace. At the palace, for an additional $3 you can purchase with your ticket a roundtrip tram ride up/down the hill to the palace… In the heat, I paid the extra $3.
Pena Palace, the “Jewel of Sintra”, looks straight out of a fairy tale. The bright colors and patterns, provide a photo op at every turn.
I then had lunch at Tascatinga, which was recommended by new friends from the Fado Tour. Now, I will recommend it to everyone visiting Sintra. It is Tapas & Wine (& beer- Sagres is a must while in Portugal!), and I ordered the Azeitao cheese with figs and smoked ham, fried chicken wings with barbecue sauce and lime, fried prawns with garlic and coriander, and for dessert- pumpkin “petit gateaux” with curd cheese ice cream, honey, and walnuts.
The atmosphere at Tascatinga is truly quaint European. The restaurant is stooped upon a hill, and utterly romantic… the perfect place to enjoy lunch or dinner.
A tuk tuk driver offered to drive me to my final destination in Sintra: Quinta da Regaleira. The Quinta has to be one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. The estate consists of a palace, chapel, a luxurious park, lakes, grottoes, and the picturesque Initiation Well. At this estate, you will get your workout in… with steep hills, stairs, and endless sites to see. Be sure to follow the map closely, I near missed the Initiation Well, as I kept making wrong twists and turns.
I walked down into town, and the streets were welcoming and bustling with people. My day in Sintra was more than I could have imagined… and during my next visit I will set more time aside to visit the other Sintra landmarks and town.
The train ride back to Lisbon was tranquil, as the sun set on my last moments in Portugal.
Traveling in the midst of the “second wave” of a pandemic is not the easiest task… However, it can be done and holds both positives and negatives. Each city held varying restrictions and were going in and out of different phases. We said hello’s to Nashville, Savannah, Hilton Head, Charleston and Asheville. A beautiful Southern “loop”… with 2 dogs.
BBQ, Broadway and country singers to make a gal swoon… Nashville, thankfully had just progressed into a new “phase” where restaurants, bars, and activities could re-open. After checking into our cute, studio, AirBNB, we left the pups and headed to Edley’s in 12South for dinner. My Mom had the brisket platter with Mac-n-cheese and coleslaw and I opted for the BBQ pork platter with Mac-n-cheese and beans. After 7+ hours in a car, packing and unpacking 2 pups, we salvaged our delicious grub. This being my 7th time in Nashville, and having my full of BBQ throughout this fine city, I chose Edley’s for my one dinner in Nashville, which says a lot. We sat outside, it wasn’t crowded, the service and food was phenomenal, and I already cannot wait to go back. 12 South wasn’t expressing its hip vibe, as the streets were bare and shops (including Draper James) were not yet open for business, which was a bit depressing and one of the many negatives of pandemic traveling.
Unfortunately, “Kickin’ back with the boys down at Santa’s Pub” wasn’t an option either as it remains closed until further notice. We did stumble across a fabulous dog park across the street from the pub, so we went back to the apartment for the dogs. I don’t know why we even try. A gorgeous and clean dog park with happy, active dogs… and my 2 just hung out near the exit waiting for their way out.
We debated Uber’ing to Broadway, but with less tourism, we were able to find a free parking spot around the corner from the Ryman Auditorium.
We checked out the AMAZING live music at Legends, Tootsies, The Stage, and the very end of a set at Mellow Mushroom. After drinks at each spot, we were feeling snacky. We ordered the Great White, an uptake of a Margherita Pizza at Mellow Mushroom. I don’t usually opt for or recommend pizza while traveling, especially being from Chicago, but this was sooo good! It was the perfect mix of ingredients and tasted incredibly fresh.
I could have spent hours on Broadway popping into each bar, but with the drive to Savannah the next day, we sadly said good-bye.
The drive to Savannah was about 8 hours with a few short stops and a bit of traffic. Wednesday we would be spending the day in Savannah, so Tuesday night, we quickly unpacked at our AirBNB and changed for the beach! We drove the 20+ minutes to Tybee Island, circling around a bit to find North Beach. Tybee Island wasn’t what I had expected the layout to be. I envisioned a Main St. full of restaurants, bars, boutiques and coffee shops, and even though Tybee offers all of the above, it is all very spread out. It is not a walkable island- you’d need a car, bike…. Or golf cart to maneuver around. We popped by North Beach and then drove to the restaurant to put our name in. Only having one night on the Island, we chose the Crab Shack based off of a recommendation from a friend. With over an hour wait, we put ourselves on the waitlist, and drove the few minutes back to North Beach for some relaxation. It’s a beautiful beach surrounded by stunning ocean homes and the Tybee Lighthouse is within view. Time went by quickly and we once again were at the Crab Shack, this time at our table with its own personal garbage can built into the middle. Extremely convenient for what we were about to order! My gawd, it was one of the best meals I have had in my life. A plate full of snow crab legs, shrimp, andouille sausage, corn, potatoes and a side of butter to drench it all in! I accompanied it with their Key Lime margarita and couldn’t have been happier. We had a view of the marsh, and even though outside, we were protected from the storm with their partial roof. We loved Tybee so much, that we decided to wake up early and come back the next morning!
Our phones hadn’t switched over so when we awoke, we thought, “On time- For once!”, but really we had lost an hour in our already jam packed day in Georgia. We then only had an hour at North Beach (Also, make sure you pay the parking meter fee or on the app! They patrol and do ticket, so be aware of your time!) and stopped for Frappe’s and a muffin at Tybean Coffee and Art. It’s located in this quaint, artsy outlet off of the main road.
After changing out of our beach wear, we drove into Savannah. We rode the Old Town Trolley throughout Savannah and learned their interesting history through the stops. We did get off at Stop 2 and walked to Mrs. Wilke’s Dining Room. We ordered ONE of their take-out meals, and it was enough to feed AT LEAST 3 people. We ordered their meatloaf, 2 sides of mac and cheese, and 1 side of mashed potatoes. It also came with an iced tea and slice of pound cake. It was DIVINE and I only wish I was able to eat more of it.
We popped into a few boutiques, received a short tour and lit a candle at The Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist, walked past historic homes, got a *Dreamsickle* (alcoholic slushie) at Wet Willie’s, and did a wine tasting at The Georgia Tasting Room.
On our trolley tour, our guide persuaded us to tour the Prohibition Museum. The Museum provided quite a bit of interesting history, included amazing artifacts, and being a Chicago girl, showed me what my city was like during the days of Al Capone and other famous gangsters. The best part, a speakeasy, found in the midst of the museum where a mixologist whipped up delicious concoctions. My Mom opted for the brandy alexander made with Leopold’s vanilla ice cream and I, the Aviator. Both were delicious! You can relax in their lounge or take your cocktail with you while you tour the remainder of the exhibitions.
After a (hot) day in Savannah we went back to the AirBNB to freshen up and check in on the pups. Pirate House had reopened its dining room the week before and we were lucky to get a reservation! We both chose their famous honey pecan fried chicken with green beans and mashed sweet potatoes. The portion was generous and the chicken dripped with their honey pecan sauce. All this time later and I can still taste the perfectly fried chicken with hints of sweetness.
For dessert, we waited in line for Leopold’s… We both chose flavors that were original from 1919. Mom chose the Lemon Custard and I the Rum Bisque. There is a reason why Leopold’s ALWAYS has a line- it’s phenomenal!
Last minute, we added on a Ghosts and Gravestones Tour with Old Town Trolley as well. We booked the 10:40pm tour and were able to see Savannah at night. We heard the haunting stories of the Pirate House, and were able to tour one of the historic homes. At the end they took us to a River Street’s Perkins and Sons Ship Chandlery for a haunting (and a tad cheesy) tale.
The next morning and it being only a short drive to Hilton Head, we stopped by for some time at the beach and a light breakfast. I had researched the parking situation prior to arrival, but once there went in circles, until I found the entrance was off the main road. Sadly, this left only a short time to explore the beach as dogs were not welcome after 10am. However, with only an hour spent on Hilton Head… had my Mom on Zillow for weeks after, planning her “big move”. We both cannot wait to go back on a family trip or…. Forever.
Hilton Head is pristine… from their beautiful beaches, boardwalks, and facilities to their shops, restaurants and all of those getting around the Island on their bikes or the town golf cart trolley.
Charleston, my favorite city was next! We ate The Codfather and shared the fish and chips. It was enough for 2 people, but honestly, I could have eaten the meal all by myself 😉
We arrived at our AirBNB on John’s Island, which was absolutely adorable and I highly recommend it! It was only about an 8-minute drive into Charleston. We reserved a tour with Palmetto Carriages, which uses working mules rather than horses, and toured one on the routes through Charleston.
I was disappointed that I couldn’t introduce my Mom to the Palace Hotel, downing a PBR with a tasty hot dog, so I settled with a Moscow Mule on tap at Rarebit. Being a Southern Charm Junkie I had to pay homage to my favorite Southern Charmers.
With that being said, after a Happy Hour dinner at El Jefe (consisting of margaritas, tacos, and chips/salsa), I parked my car and got up close to the Issac Jenkins-Mitchell House, home to none other than Patricia Altschul.
We were planning on driving through other Charleston sites, until we realized we had earlier left in a rush and hadn’t properly locked up the dogs. Terrified of the possible chaos that had ensued over the previous 5+ hours, we rushed back. Thankfully, all was well at the Airbnb and no messes were made. We called it an early night, as most of the wild night life (and crazy day drinking life) have ceased since March ‘20. The boarded-up bars and shops on King Street, plus the lack of people was a bit eerie.
We woke up bright and early, and headed to Isle of Palms for a morning of relaxation. We grabbed a prime parking spot and in the early morning shared the vast beach with only a few others. The water was pleasant and while basking in the sun had me wishing we had more time in South Carolina.
We ate blackened grouper at Ellis Creek Fish Camp and the dogs ate a meal of turkey and veggies 😊 It is the perfect place to bring your pets as the outdoor area provides a relaxed and inviting area for both adults and your fur babies.
We saved Rainbow Row and the Pineapple Fountain for our final stops before the drive to Asheville. We tried to involve the dogs in this “lovely” jaunt, but the sun was powerful and the heat overwhelming, making the experience far from enjoyable.
The ride to Asheville is about 4 hours from Charleston, and again we chose to stay in an AirBNB about 10 minutes from the city. We were shocked to see signs, cautioning that bears roam this residential area.
As most restaurants, bar, and breweries had shortened their hours we needed to get a move on. We had drinks at Greenman Brewery, and then dinner and beers at The Funkatorium, sister company to Wicked Weed. Funkatorium has all Wicked Weed beers, plus their sour beers. At Funkatorium we shared their pizza and chicken wings.
The next morning we set out on an all day adventure. We had tickets to the Biltmore Estate for 10:30, but due to the long wait at Biscuit Head we rescheduled to a later time. First thing first, Biscuit Head… I got the Pulled Pork biscuit (pulled pork, jalapeno pimento, bacon, poached egg, and maple syrup) with a maple bacon latte. It was totally worth the wait AND pushing back Biltmore. My Mom had their mimosa fried chicken biscuit with sweet potato butter, sriracha slaw and a poached egg- which was equally as tasty.
We had an appointment at the Asheville Salt Cave to relax and unwind. We were in the community “Mama” salt cave, with 3 others. We sat/laid in Zero Gravity chairs, amidst 4 walls and a ceiling of Himalayan Pink Salt. As I relaxed, I let my hands drift through the crumbled salt, trying to soak in all of the healing benefits. My Mom an I were told, 45 minutes in a salt cave is equivalent to 4 days at the Ocean. We both left happier ladies.
As we had some spare time, we went into downtown Asheville. There are blocks and blocks of the neatest shops, including some very hippie stores. My Mom bought a crystal, and I bought a happy looking tee, with an RV bus, flowers, peace signs and all slapped right on the front. We picked up pastries from Old Europe including their peanut butter mousse cake. We ate our pastries in one of the downtowns main squares, during a protest. Fitting.
As our new tickets were for 2:30, we arrived around 2. We didn’t realize the scheduled ticket time was for the entrance of the house only. You can arrive into Biltmore Estate at any time (I suggest earlier, the better) and spend the day there. You can definitely spend the whole day at Biltmore as there is so much to do. Only arriving at 2 had us choosing what to see and what not to see which was disappointing.
We did see, however, a black bear crossing the road as we drove the long road towards the Biltmore House. I was so happy I was able to capture it on camera! It definitely made us slow down and enjoy the ride, as we looked for other animals we may run across.
We started at the House- due to Covid they now do reservations for the House as they only allow a certain amount of people in per time, as well as, per room. This was quite nice and made the experience more enjoyable as you weren’t elbow to elbow with the person next to you.
The house is a sight to see-it’s magnificent. They restored the home to what it would have been in the early 1900’s. I can’t fathom what it would have been like to be a guest at the home during its glory days, yet alone live here. The details that went into each room and overall beauty will take your breath away.
From the entry way to the dining room to the indoor pool—it was all so Great Gatsby.
We were able to make it through the whole home in about an hour, with the audio tour. I highly recommend the audio tour rather than just going about the home on your own. It provided both history and fun stories about the Vanderbilt family.
With limited time, we bypassed the gardens, only driving by as we opted for the Downton Abbey Exhibit and the Winery. I’m a huge Downton fan, so I loved seeing the artifacts from the show and learning more about that time.
Unfortunately, because of social distancing and new guidelines, the Winery was at minimal capacity for their complimentary wine tastings and the next reservation was hours out. I’d suggest making a reservation and then heading to the Downton exhibit while you wait. We did stroll through the shop and their little shopping village.
As we drove through Biltmore, there were so many people enjoying their day- picnicking, kayaking, bike riding, walking, etc. Biltmore offers an annual membership, so many people who live near Asheville enjoy the expansive grounds year-round… or just pop in to grab an ice cream from the village 🙂
We decided to take the dogs out for an evening with us. We took them to White Duck Taco Shop where we humans had dinner. We ordered a few different tacos: Mole Roasted Duck, Bangkok Shrimp, Lamb Gyro, and the Thai Peanut Chicken- each one fabulous. We sat outside at one of their many picnic tables. It’s a perfect place for a low-key, outdoor meal.
We finished off our Southern road trip with drinks at Antidote at Chemist Spirits. Such a hip spot, with a great outdoor patio and an inside that resembles a swanky speakeasy. Their distillery shop where you can purchase their spirits, is set up as a pharmacy from the 20’s. Very cool. And it is a women-owned distillery! Antidote is also right next door to the Funkatorium, and down the street from a slew of breweries. Such a neat area to explore and brew hop! Unfortunately, with everything closing early, we were one and done.
After loading up the car, saddened by having to say good bye to the South, we popped into one more of Asheville’s finest for a pick me up. We couldn’t leave Asheville without trying one of their famous sesame donuts from Hole Doughnuts. Being made fresh to order, the line grew and grew. Note to others, order prior to arrival. We waited almost 50 minutes for 2 donuts and a coffee. However, do I regret the wait? Absolutely not. My only regret is not ordering a bakers dozen for the car ride home!
Driving out of PDX, we rolled back the sunroof, and maneuvered the beautiful streets of Portland, on a particularly gorgeous and sunny day, to our destination: Portland Mercado. The Barrio, usually not open until 2pm, was open early due to deliveries, and we were poured glasses of local Pinot Noir and a variety of Ale’s. We ventured through the food trucks, and created quite the meal: handmade empanadas (chicken) and churros (caramel, cream, and plain) from Alecocina, panuchos with carne asada and chicken (topped with avocado and pickled red onions) from Principe Maya, and tacos with asada, lengua (beef tongue), and carnitas from Tierra Del Sol. I literally inhaled all of the deliciousness, and could have done another round on the panuchos.
After settling into our airbnb, see below, we drove off to the coast.
Hilton Head, Cape Cod? I’ll double down on Cannon Beach. Cannon Beach is simply stunning. Haystack Rock, literally, made my jaw actually drop. Initially driving past, I almost immediately halted the car, because I was shocked by the magnitude and magnificence of these rock formations amidst the ocean. We made our way down to the beach which was then in high tide, and walked along the water’s edge.
We popped into Wayfarer’s, which is located at the public entrance to Cannon Beach for a mussel appetizer and cocktail (Excellent cocktails, appetizer/poor service). For dinner we ate at Pelican Brewing and had the clam chowder (which had a distinct potato and bacon flavor) and their fish and chips, with one of their beers on tap. Great beers and pub food!
The owner of Barrio at the Portland Mercado was shocked when we told him our evening plans were Cannon Beach and that we weren’t staying overnight… and after visiting Cannon Beach, I wish we had. The town was perfect… full of unique beachside accommodations, restaurants, bars, and boutique shops… children laughing while riding their bikes down main street *Hemlock Street*, ice cream cone in hand… a plethora of dogs playing together on the beach while their owners drank bottles of wine in their adirondack chairs surrounding a bonfire… in Cannon Beach you knew you were somewhere magical, as the ocean air intoxicated you.
However, the drive to/ from Portland/Cannon Beach was similar to the winding roads found in Costa Rica, without the major drop off, but ditches and rivers large enough to do damage. After the sun sets, amongst the unending forests, the drive can be rather unsettling, especially for a midwesterner.
After an amazing night’s rest, we had a full day ahead of us. The first stop of every morning: coffee. This morning’s fill was at the ORIGINAL Original House of Pancakes. OHoP, did not disappoint. Some of us were expecting an IHOP experience, but rather we walked into a Grandmother’s dining area that was within a very large, white home, with red and white striped awnings. The waitstaff were outstanding and every dish we ordered contained your daily allotted calories, plus another couple hundred. If there’s bacon, I can’t pass it up, so I ordered the eggs and bacon (3 thick, juicy slices) with the blueberry pancakes (served with blueberry compote). The other gals ordered the Tahitian Dream Crepes, Cherry Crepes, and Egg Benedict. On most mornings, you won’t find me eating breakfast, but if I lived in Portland- you’d catch me at OHoP every morning taking down bacon and pancakes.
To burn off a few of our calories from breakfast, we took a stroll through the Japanese Gardens in Washington Park. Reservations do have to be made for a specific time to limit the amount of people within the gardens. The gardens are beautiful, especially as we are entering Spring. Pops of color from the blooming flowers stood out against the lush green surroundings. There are different gardens to explore, including a few art exhibits. We were able to get through the garden in under an hour, including a stop in the lavish bathrooms. Japanese toilets… with their heated seats… are an attraction all in themselves.
We were then off to Willamette Valley, Pacific Northwest’s wine region. I had chosen Willamette Valley Vineyards as they are known for their expansive view, wine… and have a food menu. Although, after our breakfast, none of us were thinking about lunch quite yet. We did, however, order the chop chop salad and dungeness crab and artichoke dip with pita, to accompany our wine tasting. We tasted their Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir (the Estate and McMinnville), and Merlot. The $15 tasting fee is waived, if 2 bottles are bought. We all loved the Pinot Gris, and each bought bottles to take home!
I asked our server about Argyle Winery, which was another 1 hour drive, and if it were worth it, or if we should stay more in the area of Willamette Valley Vineyards. He said the drive was definitely worth it, as the wineries line the streets like the Las Vegas Strip. Las Vegas, ay? We were on our way!
As the closing time for most wineries were between 5 and 6pm, we only had time for Argyle. This winery’s feature: Champagne. Pop the bubbly! We chose the *Pop Flight*, for $30. I honestly thought the flight was on the pricier side, and wished I had opted for the $9 glass of Brut, or $14 Rose Brut. The ambiance was inviting, modern and lovely, especially outside on their patio.
Looking back, I really wish we had more time to explore the “strip”. We’ll just have to re-visit, and next time, hire a driver for the day!
We had dinner at Cartopia, which was down the street from Hawthorne Asylum. Every city should adapt and have various “cartopia’s” spread throughout. They offer such a laid-back vibe, where people can unwind with amazing food, drinks, and converse casually over bonfires. 2 of the ladies ordered ½ chickens with potatoes and red onions from Chicken and Guns, another ordered a cheeseburger with a side of Chinese dumplings from Bottle Rocket, and I ordered the tofu pad thai and spring rolls from BKK. Thinking back on all of our meals throughout the weekend, has my mouth watering and scouring United flights for my next visit. I’d also love to check out Hawthorne Asylum next time! It looked really cool, especially at night!
After a long and tiring day, we almost called it a night. However, a night cap was requested, so we popped in down the street from our airbnb at the Bear Paw Inn. To be fair, only one of us wanted the night cap, the other 3 gals reluctantly tagged along. But once inside, we all loved it. There was something for each one of us! Slot machines, pinball machines, CBD water, pool tables, and booze. We had a great time at this quaint little dive! My only regret is not snagging a tee.
The next morning, all of us were dressed in our athleisure wear ready for our “outdoorsy” day. The Brooklyn neighborhood has so many little gems, and our airbnb host recommended Rose City Coffee for our caffeine fix. I ordered one of their signature drinks: Amber Latte, which had melted caramel and cinnamon. Their pastries and breakfast sandwiches were also fresh and delicious! We loved it so much, we went back the next morning on our way back to PDX. The ambiance was so eclectic. Walking in, there are plants and succulents throughout the cafe, as well as thoughtful and quirky gifts.
When I think of Portland, I see nature. Sprawling green hills, mountains, streams, waterfalls, and thick forests. On our last day in Portland, we were surrounded by the beauty of nature.
Our first stop was Multnomah Falls. Just as I was taken by Haystack Rock, I was amazed by the Falls. We hiked only to the bridge, but the hike up to the falls was open. *Side note: If you want to see your skinny self, pop into their gift shop for an instant ego boost 😉
After doing my due diligence on “easy” hikes in the area, I chose the 2 mile, Wahclella Falls Trail for our lady group. If this trail was easy, I don’t want to know what they consider moderate and difficult. The trail was breathtaking and I could almost see Brad Pitt and Craig Sheffer fly fishing in the stream down below.
One of us made it to the end of the trail, the rest of us made it about ¾ of the way (until the path became so narrow, with the mountain on one side, and the other side: a drop off a couple hundred feet down). Nope, not today.
I’m sure others would debate that this actually is an easier hike, as I saw people of all ages taking the trail in stride, with their fearless dogs in lead. But, that narrow, rocky, slippery path… Bottom line, rocks are not my friend.
However, no matter how far you get on the trail, the views are outstanding. There was also a beautiful waterfall, about .1 mile into the hike.
I can also cross Washington off my 50 states by 50, as we crossed the border in search of the Columbia River Gorge Scenic area. Our GPS took us to a residential, private driveway, warning us to “Keep Out”. GPS must continuously piss these owners off.
I stopped at the local post office down the street, which was oh so charming. I asked where I could find Columbia River Gorge, and the post-woman told me, “You’re here”. The entire area is known as the scenic area. The gentleman dropping off his mail, offered to take us to one of the scenic spots, and I graciously accepted. A few miles down the main road from the post office, there was a gorgeous pull off area. We had the most unbelievable view of Oregon and Mount Hood.
After a morning of adventure, the rest of the day would involve relaxing and indulging on local culinary cuisine and spirits.
We drove back to Oregon and had lunch at Full Sail Brewing. We all had their specialty: Pacific Salmon fish and chips and shared their bourbon porter ganache glazed brownie, with Tillamook vanilla ice cream and homemade caramel sauce. Each one of us wiped our plates clean! Their local wines and beer list were excellent as well. Due to a recent intolerance to most alcoholic beverages, I decided to try their hard kombucha. I’ve tried various komuchas and most are so acidic and do not settle well. However, their flavors of Kombucha: Hibiscus Lime, Berry, and Lavender Lemonade- oh my. I bought 2 cases to bring home!
We then had a glass of wine at Cathedral Ridge Winery. The town of Mount Hood is darling, and it would be easy to spend a day exploring the town.
I did have Mount Hood Lavender Farm on the agenda, although, unfortunately it was not quite the season for lavender. The owner of the farm did let us know she had a pop up shop at Stave and Stone Winery. When I called the winery, they did say they had an opening for a tasting, so that was our next stop. However, all of the items at the pop up shop were mispriced, by 30% or higher, and would not be honored by the owner of the Lavender Farm. Sadly, out of principle, we didn’t take home any lavender goodies.
Stave & Stone: One of our best experiences of the trip. The scenery, the ambiance… the appetizers and sweets… the superb wine… the chic outdoor patio area… was unmatched. We all wished we had gotten there earlier, so that we could have spent more time. They also had an unusual Pinot Noir Blanc and a Pinot Noir Rose (Dorothy). To pair with the wine tasting and additional bottles ordered for the table, we had the goat cheese and fig jam with crackers, and the spinach and artichoke dip with pita bread.
Our last stop of our amazing gals getaway: Solera Brewery– about 8 minutes from Stave & Stone. What a view!!! We drove through this very small town, which consisted of a half block of businesses, and parked near a sign that pointed towards the right and said “Grade School”.
We walked into the fun and quirky brewery which had various ales, and a few sours. Grabbing our drinks from the bar, we went to get settled at one of the picnic tables outside. You would never imagine what this little brewery would have one of THE best views of Mount Hood. Mostly locals-neighbors, enjoyed their beers around bonfires, chatting and laughing. Everyone was so friendly and inviting, and made for such a wonderful and relaxing Friday evening.
They also offer a small menu, if you get the munchies. Speaking of munchies, the Pacific Northwest offers one of fast foods favorites: Jack in the Box, which we definitely said our hello’s to.
The next morning, before departing for the airport, we decided to stretch our legs before our flight and go for a walk along the waterfront. We picked up donuts from Blue Star, sharing the Orange Olive Oil (Divine! Moist deliciousness) and picking up ½ a dozen each for next morning’s Easter Brunch. We then grabbed coffees, once again from Rose City Coffee Co. and a few breakfast treats. Their bagel sandwiches are fire!
In our few days in Portland, we saw much of what the city, and surrounding area has to offer! The Pacific Northwest is stunning and a foodie paradise! There are still so many restaurants, wineries, breweries and neighborhoods I cannot wait to explore! Until next time, #keepportlandwierd
Minutes before landing in Jackson Hole, Wyoming I lifted my seat window to reveal one of the most beautiful sights- The Mountains were majestic, against the full clouds and blue sky.
I was filled with a (travel) “high”, the high you get when you land in a new destination, excited for the experience of different foods, cultures, and adventures.
Usually landing in an international airport with that big, city feel… thousands of people, in constant motion had me in for a surprise. At Jackson Hole, you feel like you arrived in a Hallmark movie.
The airport resembled a ski lodge, rustic and warm. At baggage claim, mimosas were served.
The only thing that brought me back to reality was the heavy price tag to get into Jackson Hole.
Ubers run from $40-$50, and I soon realized renting a car would be the best option. The car rentals were inside the airport, for the exception of Budget. Taking the shuttle to the rental car, had me curious as to where we were headed, but I soon found out Budget is located IN Jackson Hole. If you ever want to dodge the Uber ride, take the complimentary shuttle to Budget.
I did stick with my rental, as it only set me back $30 for my 24-hour adventure.
I checked into the charming ‘Antler Inn’, in the heart of JH. You won’t find a hotel chain here… only mom and pop motels.
For lunch, I ate at Snake River Brewing. I had a tasty draft with hints of pineapple (I’m such a sucker for pineapple), Wyoming bison and beef chili, and duck confit crostini. A-mazing.
I signed up for the sleigh ride at the Elk Refuge and it was the perfect day: sunny and the views stunning. To warm up the riders, wool blankets are provided and the guides are a plethora of knowledge.
We saw thousands of female and male Elk, spotted an eagle and coyote, and listened to Mommas calling out to their calf, and watched the calf come running.
Since this was a solo getaway, I took some “me” time to relax and nap. After a snooze, I got ready, bundled up, and headed over to Thai Me Up/Melvin Brewing. I started with a pint of Killer Bees- Blonde Ale and for dinner, Pad Thai with Chicken. The portion was huge, saving enough for a late-night snack 😉
Walking through JH had me wishing that I’d slip on the ice, hit my head, and wake up in a romantical Hallmark, Countdown to Christmas, with a dashing cowboy hovering over me…
As he helps me up and we walk along the “old west” shops and galleries… popping into Persphone bakery for a cocoa, before we go skating in the town square, lit up in hues of pinks, blues, and purples…
Unfortunately, my supplement accident insurance doesn’t kick in until April 1, so I cautiously took each step.
However, if you want to find a cowboy- you can find them at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. Such a cool bar! Pool tables, a live band and dance floor, and best of all, bar stool saddles!
The next morning, I popped into Persephone, that cute, hip bakery and coffee shop for a croissant. After, I swung by The Bunnery and picked up 3 bags of their homemade granola and oatmeal to take home. Both great spots for breakfast.
I walked though the many souvenir shops, wishing I could purchase it all! I loved Lee’s Tee’s- I thought the quality was top notch, the colors popped, and the designs unique. There is also a smaller shop within- Lucky You, where I found socks with the map of Yellowstone National Park.
Sadly, my 24 hours in Jackson Hole came all too quickly, but I will one day be back in this magical place… maybe next time I’ll even give the bunny hill a go 😉
Let me just start off by saying- If 21 me, could visit my 34 year old self, I swear, there’d be a whole lot of disappointment.
When I thought about letting myself loose in New Orleans, I was scared. Scared for my safety, my health, and my dignity.
I imagined myself “forgetting” where I “lived”, breaking into another persons home (accidentally), passing out in a bathroom stall, or calling my Mom to wish her a, “Happy New Year”, countdown and all… in November.
I embarked on my NOLA adventure with a thorough, 9 page itinerary, reservations stacked.
I was ready for heaps of creole cuisine, being one with the swamp life, a whole lotta hauntings, and blackouts on Bourbon Street.
Rolling into NOLA, passing a (mo)”TEL”, with a sign reading, “YOUR 15 MINUTES STARTS NOW” had me giddy for the next 108 hours. Bring it on NOLA, bring it.
Eve and I spent the first 3 nights at a local half-way house, er, hostel. India House, was a true backpackers accommodation. Walking through, what reminded me of a rundown frat house, had me feeling like a misfit, but longing for the good ole days…
College aged kids, smoking on the patios, taking a swig and passing around the bottle, all while jamming out. Others were pulling out needles and giving each other tattoos. Way to be economical?
I mean, we were staying at a 24/7 frat party… so, in a way, we all were being economical.
Thank God, I booked us a private room. There was no way I was sharing a bathroom with these strangers…. A bare bones room, with a metal bunkbed. No ladder. With little to no upper body strength, this proved to be a challenge. However, where there’s a will, there’s a way.
Our first day in NOLA, we hit the streets. It was our scheduled drinking day. Our first stop was the Carousel Bar at the beautiful, Hotel Monteleone… We got there early, and just in time to nab one of the last seats on the carousel. The carousel revolves once, every 15 minutes, while the bartenders concoct fancy cocktails, each looking more delicious then the other. If only I could spend my whole day here, making my way down the cocktail list, revolving around, I’d be one happy lady. However, drinks needed to be drank, and sites needed to be seen…
At the Carousel Bar, it was only fitting, for my first cocktail in New Orleans, to be a French 75… accompanied with blue crab and crawfish beignets.
And my second drink, to be absinthe. At the Old Absinthe House, I was told by the bartender that the ban was lifted in 2007, and the real deal was back on the shelves. Hallucinations? Er, been there, done that. However, I guess, let’s give it another go?
Fortunately, or unfortunately, I didn’t find myself as a character in Pleasantville, or on a mary-go-round in the Coach forest, reminding myself to breathe.
I can finally say I’ve drank at the oldest bar in America… at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, Voodoo and eggnog daquiri’s were served. People were going hard on the voodoo daiquiri’s, so we gave it a go. There was a distinct taste that I couldn’t quite put my finger on, but regardless, it wasn’t worth finishing- which says enough as I do not believe in wasting a drink. The eggnog was like Christmas in my mouth, especially with that extra kick of fireball…
Hurricane’s were taken back at Pat O’Briens, the creators of this famous cocktail… while listening to a woman in her late 60’s crank out Snoop Dog on the piano… Sippin’ on gin and juice… laid back…
Then I paid $40, to be told that in 7-9 months, I would be “shocked”, by the appearance of “the one”. Shocked by the overwhelming love, how perfect he would be? If only my voodoo priestess, didn’t continue to revert to his own life, and his love for popeyes, and fuzzy peckers, maybe I’d have more clarification (and confidence in) of what my cards and the spirits were trying to tell me.
By 4pm, I felt hungover. It was like my body bypassed being the fun drunk, and just went straight to giving myself the big “f* u”. I was on the hunt for Aleve, which I found next to Bob Ross’ “Happy Little Tree mints” and various metal fertility ” sex positions”, in the voodoo shop.
After so much booze, it was time for some creole deliciousness, so that our night didn’t end prematurely. We ate at the Gumbo Shop, having a shrimp poboy and chicken andouille gumbo… the gumbo was top notch- obviously. The cuteness of Cafe Beignet on Royal Street, draws people in by the masses and their beignets are light, moist, and the perfect dessert.
From there, we hit up Frenchman Street, for the best of the New Orleans music scene. Panorama, was an interesting (jazz?) band that played music that was unique to my ears… they introduced quite a few of their songs to be Macedonian. 7 men, misfits, joined together to create a sound like no other. They’re at the Spotted Cat, every Saturday, check them out for sure.
From there we wandered Frenchman Street- the live music was phenomenal in each bar, large and small. The art scene also stood out. There was an art night market in the alleyway adjacent to the Spotted Cat. I stumbled upon an artist, who creates abstract art of local New Orleans hot spots, and scored some great pieces.
I shouldn’t be surprised, by the toll adulting takes on a person… day drinking had us down for the count by 8pm. However, only after we grabbed to-go fried chicken and mac-n-cheese from Willies… which we inhaled from the comfort of our beds at the halfway house.
The next morning, we found Jesus at St. Louis Cathedral. The first time I ever heard a priest sing as part of his homily, that Jesus is our friend.
Outside the Cathedral, tarot card readers, stooped about the surroundings. I debated giving it another go, but on church grounds, I felt like God would strike me, so I kept on walking.
Walking straight to an endless Rose and Mimosa brunch at Kingfish. By far the best meal I had in New Orleans… a bbq gulf shrimp poboy, and boudin balls. Plus, they knew what they were doing leaving 3 bottles on ice next to our table.
We ubered over to the swamplands, for our Cajun Pride Swamp Tour. With the cold coming in, we worried we wouldn’t be able to catch a gator sighting. However, we sure did. And raccoons. And a Bald Eagle. And a Blue Heron. Our Captain, Captain Tom, was a man that was one with the swamp… like his family before him, and those that would come after him.
He had a way of telling every story, myth, and haunting. His lawyers suggested he pipe down a bit, as this was a family tour, HA, but thank the lord, Captain Tom listens to no one.
And then, as I sat next to a cooler… which I thought was Captain Tom’s liquor stash… he pulls out a gator. If you ever need to me to run, pull a gator out of a cooler.
We scored a deal with the Tour Bus driver, and hitched a ride back to the city with him, where he dropped us off just in the knick of time for our distillery tour, at Seven Three. Seven Three represents the 73 neighborhoods in New Orleans, and the first half of the tour, the history of NOLA was super interesting. They name their liquors after the neighborhoods, and each went down too smooth.
We also made friends, during our tour, who were super Southern, hilarious, and made the experience that much more enjoyable.
For dinner, we went to Crescent City Brewery. I read good things about it, but for the price, I was less than impressed. Except for that bread pudding- which was everything.
We TRIED to rendezvous on Bourbon, but just didn’t have it in us. If only we knew Justin Timberlake was getting cozy with his co-star on one of the infamous Bourbon balconies… Then I’m sure we would have gone buck wild, and kicked it all night long. That would have been all we needed to get that second wind.
On our 3rd day, we scheduled a 9am cemetery, ghost, and voodoo tour. Eve and I were super hyped, but unfortunately it was a let down. Our tour guide tried way too hard, to the point his comments and gestures were uncomfortable… I like my personal space and therefore, don’t want to get too close… so, no, please do not try to hug me as I’m backing away.
We did see the future resting place of Nicholas Cage. A pyramid themed grave. He must really have loved National Treasure.
And the resting spot of Madame Laveau. Threw her a little prayer… and a request or two. 😉
Ace Rental Car… I don’t know if this hood rental facility should be praised, or not. It was a newer car, and got us to where we needed to go and back, on little to no gas, so I’ll take it as a win. I suppose I’ll give my final verdict when my hefty, safety “deposit” is returned to my checking account.
Monday was our driving day. All 4 hours and 50 minutes, 280 miles… My goal is 40 countries by 40, and 50 states by 50. So close to Mississippi, might as well cross that one off the list too. We drove to Gulfport, having lunch at Murky Waters BBQ. The smells, the savory taste of pork, brisket, pulled chicken, and chicken wings… That was one restaurant to write home about.
I didn’t expect much from the beach scene in Gulfport/Biloxi, but I was impressed. It reminded me of St. Petersburg, Florida. My home away from home. It is definitely a beach community that is underrated… a beach community with a major twist. Picture driving along the long stretch of white beach with beach bars and jet ski rentals, and boom, you’re in a mini Vegas surrounded by the Golden Nugget, Beau Rivage (an imitation of the Mirage), Hard Rock, and Harrah’s, amongst others…. they even have an MGM baseball stadium, lions guarding. So bizarre, but I love bizarre. I’ll definitely be back. Also, the casino’s advertise Power Hours, rather than Happy Hours… Bars after my own heart.
The drive to the Myrtle’s Plantation was about 3 hours… 3 grueling hours… until fate intervened. I had been drinking Abita beers throughout the weekend, and had wanted to visit the brewery, but it was too far out of the city, being a whopping $90 uber, each way.
Then there it was. The exit sign for Abita Brewery. I had to go and so happy I shook Eve awake and demanded we go. Never in my life have I loved a brewery more. I went out of my comfort zone on my flight, and sampled others I wouldn’t generally lean towards… and each did not disappoint… from the light color of the White Chocolate Stout, the Peanut Butter Strawgator, Purple Haze, the Boot, and my all time favorite, The Old Fashioned. How they created a beer, that tastes identical to an Old Fashioned is beyond me. Magic. That’s how they did it. I only wish they sold bottles of the “specialty” brews and I would have had all of my Christmas shopping done.
And the service was fab. I can’t want to bring alllll of my family and friends to check this place out!
Driving through St. Francisville is eery as F*. I expected the car to go dead on the side of the pitch black road… For someone to hijack us at the gas station… For children to come out of the corn stalks…
We pulled into the Myrtle’s, past the entrance wrought iron gates, following the curves of the long drive, and parked in the empty lot.
We grabbed our bags, wandering, to find the overnight care taker, whom we found waiting for us in the general store. My first question, “Is there anyone else staying here?!”
On Mondays, the restaurant/bar is closed, so the guests had gone into town for dinner. People better show up, I thought, or I was out.
After a dinner of gas station snacks in the courtyard, we were shown to our room. The William Winter Room is the room in which William Winter’s daughter Kate was dying and a Voodoo Priestess, Cleo, was called in to cure Kate. She placed various artifacts underneath the bed, to bring down the fever, and remove illness from Kate’s body. Kate passed away, and William Winter hung Cleo in front of the plantation.
This is just one of the “legends” that had occurred at Myrtles Plantation, which is home to 12 ghosts, and where 10 murders have taken place.
Eve went to bed early, and as watched Southern Charm, New Orleans, the episode on Myrtles, the orb appeared. I doubted it the entire time it happened, but it was there, and real. 3 times, a neon green light shone through the window, getting stronger and weaker, before abruptly ending. I tried to wake Eve, but she wouldn’t budge, and I wasn’t quick enough to grab my phone. Quite honestly, the orb wasn’t registering as I tried to think of a logical reason for its occurrence.
I yelled out that I was going to go to the window to look, turning on the flashlight on my phone, but was scolded by Eve to just turn on the actual light. I went to look out the window, but nothing but trees stared back at me.
I heard my neighbors next door, and as we shared a window, I asked them the next morning if they had seen the neon green light. They hadn’t.
I had fallen asleep, and throughout the night, felt something heavy laying on top of me. I started to yell out to Eve, but she wasn’t responding. It wasn’t soon later that I realized I was in sleep paralysis. I imagined myself moving over, screaming, whispering, but I couldn’t break free. Surprisingly, I remained calm throughout, knowing I would find my way out.
The next morning at breakfast and throughout the tour, guests asked each other if they heard, saw, or felt anything. A man felt something tugging at his shirt, a couple woke in the middle of the night, sweating and feeling sick to their stomach, even though their AC was on (they stayed in the room where a soldier had been shot in the foot, and suffered from gangrene)… The cook told stories on how loud music will turn on in the restaurant, that in the dolls room, dolls heads will move from one side to the other, or fall off the mantles… the children of the house like to play tricks.
Chloe, the nanny for the Woodruff children, who “accidentally” murdered the lady of the house, and their 2 daughters, likes to come back and take one earring from guests. Her ear was cut off by Clark Woodruff for eavesdropping, so she only really needs 1 earring. Chloe also likes to act as lady of the house, and can be seen in the ladies day room.
The Discovery Channel’s “Ghosthunters”, the Travel Channel’s “Most Terrifying Places in America”, and in 2002, Unsolved Mysteries were filmed here, so if you don’t take my word for it that this place is scary as sh*t, take theirs.
We hurried back to NOLA, wishing we had more time to explore the grounds, but had a 12:30 reservation for .25 cent martini’s.
The Commander’s Palace is a true Southern dining experience in New Orleans, famous since 1880. I ordered the turtle soup (which at first tasted similar to a chili), what they are known for, as well as a tostada with pulled pork. An interesting choice for Commander’s Palace, but it was heavenly. Also, after 3 martini’s, every delicious bite was needed.
Eve headed off to the airport and I stayed put for one more night. This time, staying at Madame Isabell’s, a short walk to Frenchmen Street. I attempted to nap off my “day drunk”, and then headed out on a solo adventure.
Walking in and out of various bars, each having amazing musicians… I found myself getting my nose re-pierced, 5th times a charm, right? and eating pizza with a Strawberry lager from Abita listening to a jazz band.
I found my way back to the hostel, walking along the cobble stone, admiring the architecture and beauty of New Orleans.
As the end of my long weekend draws to a close… I’m still intact. Dignity and all…. Au Revoir New Orleans.
Taking the red eye flight to Singapore, with a layover in Kuala Lumpur, had us arriving with red eyes.
The layover was stressful with all of our things, especially as we all had over packed and were charged right outta the gate at PEK for excess baggage. AirAsia got me once again.
We arrived in Singapore, taking an uber to our AirBNB. As we waited for the keys, we had wine and a cheese plate at the Wine Connection (@Robertson Walk). I am in constant search of a good cheese plate… and let me tell you, they are hard to come by… especially when paired with a $6 glass of wine during Happy Hour. So, stumbling upon this gem was a blessing.
The AirBNB was small, but luxurious and in prime location. We didn’t explore our neighborhood much, but it was easily accessible to all of the hot spots.
The family checked out the pool, as I napped. Soon, it was time to experience Singapore.
We went to The Banana Leaf Apolo for dinner in Little India. Little India has many restaurants, but this is clearly a favorite in the neighborhood, and it was delicious. We had the vegetable samosa’s, butter chicken, and prawn mango curry. I was hoping for biryani to go with the entrée’s, but instead they brought over a bucket and ladled a heaping of white rice and vegetables right onto my placemat.
After dinner, we strolled through Little India… The architecture and bright colors were mesmerizing, the smells were distinct, and the streets were lined with open air stalls, selling anything from food to casual wear to holy items.
There were many temples, filled with numerous people praying and placing offerings.
And finally- Nick Young, where you be??
Online, you can buy entrance with drink tickets to 1-Altitude. Thank Gawd, the internet was acting faulty and I couldn’t complete the online purchase… Because Wednesday night- is LADIES NIGHT. Free entrance, and $5 martinis… We walked around the rooftop, with the 360 degree view of beautiful Singapore, and although crowded, moved in to a lounge area at the perfect time… scoring private, cushy lounge couches near an outlet.
We sipped on all flavors of martinis… cosmos, chocolate, apple, lychee… like the fancy ladies that we are.
After drinks, we popped over to Satay Street (Lau Pa Sat) for a late night snack… Do I love sticks of meat. Satay Street is on one of the busiest streets in the business district in Singapore. At 7pm, it is transformed into an aromatic, smoke filled street, with plastic tables and chairs, and lined with hawkers grilling the tastiest and juiciest meats. We ordered a combo plate of beef, chicken, and mutton from Stalls 7 & 8. After our hearty Indian dinner, we thought we’d have satay leftovers. Definitely not. We devoured every single one, and the cucumbers that came with it.
We loaded up on waters at the 7Eleven for the apartment and headed back to rest for the full day ahead.
Jordan took the red eye as well, but with flight delays arrived in time to head down to the pool with us. The pool was expansive, wrapping around a portion of the building. What a life.
We booked through Klook the Singapore Flyer + Gardens By The Bay + OCBC Skyway + Gelato package for about $44, which was well worth the price as these are the hottest tourist spots and can fill a full day.
We met the Klook Rep at the Singapore Flyer, picking up our tickets for the day. We first rode the Singapore Flyer, and although large enough to hold 15 people comfortably, I was bummed our group of 4 had to share with 2 others. Although, it was convenient when wanting to snap group pics.
The Flyer was super cool and offered awesome views during the 30min ride. I’m not usually one to jump on a Ferris Wheel, as I’m not down for the “tourist traps”, but this one was well worth it.
After our ride, Mom and Danute went to the Botanical Gardens while Jordan and I hauled it to Tiger Brewery for a tour. However, even though running late, all of us first stopped to get our gelato that came with our package. Mmm… The perfect treat to beat the heat.
We walked in halfway through the tour, which meant nothing to me… All I wanted was the photo ops and brews. Jordan I posed throughout the cool grounds, with Tiger memorabilia, and I raised my hand high and with eagerness, to participate in tapping and pouring the perfect pour.
I’m not much for volunteering, however, I knew this involved a free beer. Sometimes, you gotta go outside your comfort zone.
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The tour was a mix of a local brewery and world-renowned brewery… simply, showing how and where the beer is made… to the interactive activities…
Of course, one saves the best for last. They gave everyone “sample tickets”, although I’m pretty sure you can stay there all afternoon and get blitzed on those minimal drink tickets. It is similar to wine and beer fests, where by law, they have to act they are trying to hinder your consumption, but in the end, no one actually cares if you find yourself stumbling out of the pub.
The bar at Tiger is beautiful. It makes one feel they are in a distinguished, English pub. From the wooden interior, oversized leather chairs, to the vintage signs.
Jordan and I grabbed a seat at the bar, and the entire time wished we had more time and didn’t have to rush back to Gardens By The Bay.
Tiger Brewery set me up, yearning for casual, day drinking.
After purchasing souvenirs from the gift shop, just more stuff to lug around all day, we headed back to Gardens By The Bay.
If you ever find yourself at Gardens By The Bay and the OCBC Walkway… prepare yourself for hours upon hours of walking. My gahd.
We met the fam and of course, chose to have lunch at the food stalls, which were the furthest away from the main attractions.
It was worth it though, to have alllll of those delicious choices. We ordered Satay, fried rice, egg rolls, dumplings, and pad thai.
I ate my lunch with my crisp, Tiger Beer that I was sent on my way with from the brewery… A fresh Tiger produced that day, right off the line.
On our way to GBTB, we passed the Children’s Garden. If only I were 30 years younger… I would have stripped down and threw myself into that splash pad to wash off the sweat.
Gardens By The Bay… was truly majestic. The Cloud Forest with its gorgeous, refreshing waterfall- which also happens to be the largest, indoor waterfall in the world…. The treetop walk, experiencing the beauty from high above… The oversized crystals… The exquisite flowers and plants… and the wafting scent of the orchid exhibit.
And all of it was in a cool 23C. I should have just spent my day in there, being misted by the falls with some pocket wine.
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Charity had arrived in Singapore, and we were meeting her in the Flower Dome. They feature flowers and plants from around the world, and the current attraction were tulips from Holland. Thousands upon thousands of beautiful tulips of varying colors with windmills and a Dutch Fair. The Dutch Fair sold ethnic food, drinks, and gifts from Holland… if only the fair was 420 friendly as well.
Jordan revisited the Cloud Forest with Charity, while we stuck back in the Dutch Fair with a snack, resting our feet, and continued to cool off.
We all met back together, to enjoy the spectacle of the Light Show at 7:45. We grabbed a few seats on the concrete, and kicked back.
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To say the show was phenomenal, is an understatement. The colors, and the way the trees danced in sync with the music… Absolutely brilliant.
Thankfully, we realized we needed to stand in line to reserve a time period for the OCBC Skyway before it was too late, because we could have totally missed out.
We didn’t have to wait too long after the light show, before out 8:15 entry opened. We took the elevator up, and spent some time in the SuperTree Grove.
The Supertree’s vary in size, ranging from 82 feet to 164 feet tall. The OCBC Skyway is at 72feet above ground and 420feet long. It is not for those with a fear of heights. From the Skyway you have views of Singapore and Marina Bay area. A truly unique experience.
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We all piled into an oversized uber, to our reservation at Vatos Tacos. We ordered a variety of apps and tacos to share. Including the: Three Amigos (Guac, Roasted Corn Salsa, and Pico w/ tortilla chips), Urban Tacos (Chili lime shrimp and Baja fish), and Tamales.
What we really came for though… were their potent margs and sweet teas.
I could have taken back a few, but we all limited ourselves to 1, since they came with a hefty price tag.
For our last day in Singapore, I wanted to check out the Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling (where they were created) and to eat at Liao Fan Hawker Chan, Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle (the Worlds cheapest Michelin Star restaurant), but instead we slept in and leisurely took our time washing clothes and packing for our afternoon flight to Kuala Lumpur.
With an hour to spare, we headed to Marina Bay Casino, to try our luck at the slots. Luck, we did not have.
We did each walk out with player cards though, as if we were high rollers spending that cash money, honey. Roulette started at $25, and slots at $5. We played what we had, and it went quick. The best part was the wandering robot distributing drinks.
At the airport, we did our whole trying to trick the airlines with baggage allowance, but this time they didn’t care how much each weighed.
We schlepped our things throughout the airport, which is rated as the #1 airport in the world. We traveled across the airport to the Jewel, to see their indoor waterfall, lined with the best of shopping and restaurants.
I do have to say, besides how large the airport is, it is rather efficient. You don’t go through baggage security until you are at the gate… only through ticket security and then customs. The whole process took mere seconds. We had a quick lunch in their food court area, and realizing our gate was not as close to us as we had initially thought, had to haul a**, in a complete panic.
Thankfully, we made it just in the knick of time… & just like that, we were off to our last stop of our Asia adventure together…Kuala Lumpur.
Japan… a country that appreciates its past, yet forsees the future. It is proud, yet cultured. A little bit wild, a whole lot of quirky, yet dignified and elegant. A pinch of crazy, but safe.
Therefore, if Japan resembled man, he would be the perfect man.
I had the pleasure to visit Japan over Golden Week. In 5 days, I was able to get a taste of Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima, and Miyajima.
I always go into a new country with a jam packed “to-see, to-do, and to-eat” list. However, I usually get caught up, but still manage to cross off the highlights. That is what happened in Japan.
I pre-ordered the JRPass (Japan Rail) prior to arriving in Japan. This saved me so much time, despite the fact that I don’t remember the last time I had to use public transportation while traveling. This year I have been spoiled with the low costs of Uber and their counterparts: Didi and Grab.
I stayed at Hostel Den while in Tokyo, which was the greatest blessing without having a data plan. They gave each guest their own smartphone with all convenient apps already downloaded. Without daily use of google maps, I would have found myself in North Korea by now.
I took the JR and subways throughout the day, and my first stop was the Sensoji Temple. I followed suit buying incense and whirling it about me, wafting in its strong odor. Putting the sticks of incense into a large burner and further drenching myself in its “powers” (?). I then picked up a ladle and drank water spouting from the mouth of a dragon. Shaking gently a metal canister waiting for my lucky stick to drop, which held a number to a drawer containing a fortune. Unfortunately for me, it was no good fortune.
Apparently, what is lost will be found… eventually. Fortune and damage will visit me one by one…. spiritual trouble will come to me repeatedly… I’ll just let it speak for itself. That…. “The final small fortune” went right up on a rack. Hopefully, I tied it tight enough.
I obviously had to try this again. I went back to the incense burner… unsure of the purpose, but again threw myself into the smoke hoping to rid of that “final small fortune”.
I shook that silver canister, not politely or gently this time either. Finally, it produced the fortune I was intended to have. I must not have had the right dose of incense and “holy water” the first time around.
Feeling good, I popped into a Matcha Shop, and had my first mochi ball of my trip. I swear I could live on only Mochi balls… especially if I could get my hands on the ice cream version. Ugh, Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s- you two set me up with false hope of Japanese treats. Eat them while you can in the US of A, you won’t be finding them in Japan. Trust me, I tried.
I remembered to chew the mochi ball carefully…. I read an article that mochi balls are a leading cause of death in Japan (choking)… That would be the bizarre way I’d go.
I headed to Harajuku to visit another shrine. THIS is where I derailed from my schedule, ending up at The Gap and Birkenstocks. It was golden week and stores were offering tax-free. Plus, I was finally in a country where the clothes fit and they had size 9 in stock.
Since I already messed up the timeline, I figured I’d just continue shopping. Daiso. Wow. 3 floors of items that are both weird and practical.
Did I need a dish sponge that looks like a piece of bread or pens with sumo wrestlers? Of course, I needed a chopstick set for 6… as well as, solar energy lucky cats and earrings in the shape of Mickey’s head for my upcoming Disney day.
How I wish America had a Daiso… It’d be even more dangerous than letting me loose in Target.
2 things on my first day in Tokyo that I could not stray from was the Monster Cafe and the Robot Restaurant.
Both places would be best on an acid trip… or the worst. Very few words can accurately describe each of these places.
At Monster Cafe, women dressed as monsters serve you, and gather together to put on a “show”. However, these “monsters” are more comparable to scary dolls that can give one nightmares. You are seated in 1 of 4 rooms that are connected by a carousel. The “show” accompanied by EDM music are the “monsters” dancing robotically atop the carousel which has a large, dilapidating neon cake taking center. Surrounding it are cherries and unicorns with bloodshot eyes. Super weird, but you can’t help getting sucked into the madness.
Because it was Golden Week, they offered a simple, Western-style menu, with a twist. I ordered the Spaghetti Bolognese and a Strawberry Shake. The presentation was really neat, super fun and colorful. It wasn’t the best meal I’ve had, but at the Monster Cafe, you aren’t paying for the food.
I leisurely made my way to the Robot Restaurant, scoping out the ‘hood that it was in. The street that the restaurant is on, is just as whacky as the show itself.
I first walked in and the place was dead, with only a few minutes before show time. There must have been a bar I missed out on because suddenly a flood of people poured in, all carrying booze.
The show. Where do I start?
Do I look right (drums beating)? Left (Blast of fire and gunshot)? Front and center (laser beams)? Giant pandas, robot fights, musical numbers, and a Mamma Mia sing along finale.
The set up was as if you were a participant on a Japanese Game Show, MC and all. Super weird, super awesome.
It’s only a few minute walk from Piss Alley (Golden Gai), which I went to for a drink after the show. Piss Alley, are rows of bars, that can only accommodate 10 or less people in each. I finally found a bar with an open seat, and wiggled my way in… which was like an obstacle course in and of itself with all of my earlier purchases.
The owner of the bar was a Japanese woman in her 70’s. A classy, vodka drinking, turtle neck wearing, cigarette smoking lady.
I told her I wanted to be her when I grow up.
I made my way back to the hostel as Jordan would be arriving. I successfully made it a day in Tokyo using public transit, solo, with minimal and minor glitches.
The next day, J and I had 1/2 the day to play around, before our Japan exploration departure. J wanted Ramen for lunch, and I wanted to check out Akhibara, Tokyo’s gaming district.
We didn’t grab our handy smart phones from the hostel as we were checking out, and what a cluster f* that turned out to be.
Once again, we were in Vietnam, with no data, in constant search of WiFi.
We wandered around desolate streets of the “Akhibara” ‘hood, unsure of where to find the “gamers” and all the weirdness.
After a few minutes on FamilyMart’s WiFi, we figured out the turns and crossings that needed to be made.
#weird is what we found.
For how dignified, conservative, and respectful Japan is… they also, sure let their freak flag fly.
Anime street art of young school girls, flashing their undies… men of all ages, playing video games in arcades with an intensity I have not seen before…. photo rooms, where you are able to play dress up in risqué and seductive costumes….
Fortunately (or unfortunately?), none of the sailor nor school girl outfits were in my size.
J and I had a blast, posing and acting silly in our photo/video shoot. After, we tweaked them with stickers and quotes. Just beware, you’re on a time crunch to bedazzle those photos. So, work fast.
Jordan hard pressed the Ramen. I kept thinking of those 5/$1 Ramen packages you find in the grocery aisles, and wasn’t overly thrilled about waiting in a 30 minute line for a bowl of sodium.
BUT oh.my.
Ichiran- dishing out only pork ramen, and a few “extra’s” ie. green onion, hardboiled egg, extra meat, spice level… has perfected their craft.
One perk of J being a “vegetarian”, double pork.
You order your meal on a vending machine. You tap what you want, put in your money, and a ticket spits out. You continue to wait in line, until a table opens up. Hand over your ticket, and your meal is brought to your seat.
The rest of my time in Japan, I’d be on the hunt for Ramen.
We grabbed our things from the hostel, telling them we’d be back in a few days to end our trip.
I had picked up my JRPass at the airport, but we needed to go the JR office at the train station to get J’s. With middle of the day lines and crowds, dragging my luggage(s) was super stressful. Adding to that stress, we were unable to reserve ANY of our train tickets. Supposedly there are specific cars on each train for those without reservation. Seats are not guaranteed. Spending $300 on a 5 day pass, and unable to get a reserved seat… I near lost my sh*t on that poor ticket agent.
We made our way back to Tokyo Station and hopped a train to Kyoto. One of my Pinterest pins was a conveyor belt Sushi restaurant in Kyoto station and we had to go. The line was long, but moved rather quickly for the limited amount of seats there were. I loaded up on sushi pairs, and after a combined 11 plates, we had our fill. If only they knew of Americans, or my, love of spicy mayo. Japan, get on that trend.
We found our way to our Kyoto Hostel, Friends Kyo. Just 2 gals, trekking that baggage.
They must have known we were struggling, because for the next 2 nights we weren’t shlepping it in the 8 bed, mixed dorm, but were upgraded to our own, private suite… including a balcony with a view of the mountains.
Thank God, for the small things.
We took a stroll through charming Kyoto, where men and women wore kimono’s. The culture and older traditions can be seen here. We came across a diner, with ice cream sundaes. Take a look at these babies.
The next morning, we took the subway, the JR Line, another train, and a ferry to Miyajima. We bypassed the long line of those waiting to visit the museum, and strolled through the streets lined with tourists.
At Miyajima Brewery, I got a tasty cold draft, to beat the heat. We did a photo shoot at the Great Torii Gate. At High Tide, the Gate is submerged, however we were there during low tide, so we were able to get up close.
Women dug clams, while others relaxed or played on the beach. Deers roamed the small island, lining up for food at the vendors and snatching from tourists hands. Ice cream vendors sold “deer poo”, so of course we got in on that. #Basic
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We made the short trek back to Hiroshima. We strolled through the Memorial Peace Garden, but this time stood in the line for the Peace Memorial Museum. The Museum was beautifully done and well organized. There were hoards of people, moving along like cattle, however each person serene and moved about with reverence.
The exhibits were heart wrenching, with found remnants, pictures, and accounts from survivors and/or family members.
One in particular, moved me more than others. Sadako Sasaki, died when she was 12 years old, 10 years after the bombing. She developed acute leukemia due to radiation from the atomic bombing in Hiroshima. An old Japanese belief is that whomever folds 1,000 paper cranes, will have their wish come true. Sadako, during her last days created 1,000 cranes, with a wish for a full recovery. She passed away shortly after.
Within the Peace Memorial Park, Sadako’s classmates and friends created the Children’s Peace Monument in her honor, through various funding. Surrounding the monument are strands of paper cranes, with 10 million+ paper cranes sent each year to promote peace.
We walked along the boardwalk past the A-Bomb Dome, as well as, the Memorial Cenotaph, Peace Bells, and Peace Flame.
I remember as a child, reading John Hersey’s Hiroshima. Years later, to be where it took place- to be surrounded by the memorials and learning of the individuals affected… was surreal.
It was an emotionally and physically exhausting day, which made the trip back to Kyoto even less bearable. But first, Ramen at Incheon… to ease our hanger. It also didn’t help that I made yet another stop at Daiso, buying dishware amongst many other trinkets, having to lug it around town.
The way back to Kyoto was chaotic to say the least. These JR Trains could be much more user friendly. If I got “kicked off” one more train… Did I mention we spent $300 each on this pass?
I was having flashbacks to the night I was awoken by 2 police officers and their police dogs, being thrown off the train on my way back from Tijuana.
However, this time I wasn’t drunk, nor found the experience humorous… I was sober, tired, and peeved.
Jordan however, knowing how irked I was, decided to poke the bear…. posting all of the drama on snapchat… Annoyed, I yelled out, that no one cares that we were told to get off by the conductors, because we got on the wrong train, YET AGAIN…. except, for those 4 people that decided to comment (eye roll).
What seemed to be many miserable hours later, we made it back to Kyoto Station and our hostel. Although, kindness (or pity) was shown to us by strangers trying to help us navigate our way back…. We would have been lost, literally, without them.
The next morning we packed our bags, leaving them at a locker at the station, which was extremely convenient. Lucking out, we were able to shove all of our stuff into one.
Exploring Kyoto, we visited the Tenryi-ji Temple, Bamboo Forest, Arashiyama Park, Fushimi Inari, Old Town, and the Nishiki Market.
The garden prior to the bamboo forest was absolutely charming. It was a fabulous gateway to the Bamboo Forest, which was magical.
Walking amongst these bamboo stalks, had one feeling like Jack, standing beside his beanstalk.
We walked through the crowded, touristy streets towards Arashiyama Park… Which had paddle boats, shops lining the streets, and monkey hill.
The steep incline to the top of monkey hill would have taken 20 minutes, so I opted out. Jordan made the trek, and while she was hanging with monkeys, I browsed the local shops. I’m so glad I did, because as I was browsing music boxes, I heard a very familiar voice. I whipped around and it was Frank, one of my favorite students! The funny part is, the week before, I was told that Frank was going to Tokyo over break as well. I joked about the chance of running into Frank with the other teachers. “You’ll never see each other!”, they said.
…… and there was Frank, in the middle of a music box shop in Arashiyama. I loved it!
Jordan and I still had some more places to check out before heading back to Tokyo that night, so we hopped on the local bus… aklcweioajnf. That’s all I have to say about that.
What a cluster F*ck.
Over an hour, in a jam packed bus… and they continued to make stops, letting on more people. I just did not understand.
Uber’s were taken the rest of the day. At Fushimi Inari, again, were hoards of people moving at a snails pace. We took our photo with the thousands of bright orange gates, which forms a tunneled pathway, and bolted back to another uber.
We headed toward Kyoto’s Old Town, having a curry lunch at a nearby hostel. Holy spice level- Near burnt my mouth. In the Old Town, there were many more dressed in beautiful kimonos. There was one main road, which was the prime “tourist spot”. There were a few streets that broke off, but did not have much going on. Sadly, my expectations were too high (for the exception of the sake tasting).
We walked the hilly streets, popping into a few shops and doing a sake tasting at 336… which went down way too easily.
Ubers were way too over priced, and there were non available, so we were left to get on another bus. Once you go taxi or Uber in Japan- you don’t wanna go back. Beautiful cars, and a driver in a suit, hat, and white gloves. Ridin’ around Japan, makes ya feel like you’re a royal.
I really wanted to check out the Nashiki Market, as I was expecting an authentic market similar to Christkindlmarkt or a farmers market… Sadly, most of the stalls sold mass produced items and the food lacked appeal.
Jordan had pointed out wooden Japanese dolls to me, and I had to have one. Need? No, for sure not. Want? Definitely. I went on the hunt for the perfect one, and found one that called out to me. She’s wearing a bright pink kimono, a bow atop her head, has long eye lashes, and red lips.
We made our way back to Kyoto station, collecting our luggage, and stood in line for another round of conveyor sushi. I definitely over stuffed myself, but mmm…
In Tokyo, we grabbed a taxi to our hostel. Again, with no wifi, we had difficulty communicating the location of our hostel. For the last 10 minutes of our ride, we drove up and down a single block. Literally, forward, and then reverse… Multiple times. Frustrated, we tried to get out, but he wasn’t understanding/wouldn’t let us. We were trapped in this taxi- with the meter running. Finally, we jumped out, gestured for the trunk, paid the man, and walked the rest of the way.
We needed to rest up- Disney was in the morning!
We took the train to Disney Station, which is Downtown Disney. Once there, you had the option to walk to the parks, which is no cake walk or you had to pay $5 round trip if you wanted to take the tram…. I’ve never seen this at the other parks, having to pay for the tram, but we paid and took the festive ride around the parks and 2 resorts before arriving at Disney Sea.
Visiting Disney World and Shanghai Disney, I wanted to switch it up a bit. First things first, another pair of Minnie ears. HOWEVER, this time, along with ears, J and I twinned it up with a full on Minnie outfit.
We walked the entire park, in search of something we could eat. We backtracked to the entrance… eating at the Italian Restaurant- Pizza and Spaghetti.
We walked through Ariel’s fabulous castle, which housed an underwater themed kid paradise, through Aladdin’s (Sultan’s Courtyard) where we rode the carousel, journeyed through the Center of the Earth… where we fast passed 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea- a slow paced family ride, and visually stimulating… however, we clearly did not do our research on Disney Sea’s attractions, as we should have fast passed the coasters. We waited over 2 hours in line, for the 2 rides most similar to a roller coaster (Journey to the Center of The Earth and Raging Spirits). To amuse ourselves, many candid photos were taken… mostly J taking them of me… which did not go over well.
There were other areas such as a Mediterranean Coast, American Old Town, and an extremely small version of Toy Story Land. I love Disney, and although Disney Sea was very walkable and beautifully designed, it was a hodge podge of areas.
As we walked the park, what seemed multiple times, it wasn’t until the end of the day that I finally found what I was looking alllll day for: Toy Story alien mochi balls. I near gave up hope until I saw 2 girls, walking around the park eating them. I basically chased them down, yelling, “Excuse me!” You’d think they would be in Toy Story land, but they were at a bakery near the entrance and the nightly light show. The show at night is pretty spectacular. It showcased all of the Disney classics, music, movie clips, and all. But the highlight, was savoring every bite of those mochi balls.
Aren’t they adorable? Besides these cuties, Disney Sea had some really interesting goodies, some that I didn’t dare try. Each area also had their own special flavor of popcorn… curry, Chinese chili, garlic shrimp, and the classics like caramel and salted.
I was sad to say goodbye to yet another trip to Disney, but grateful for the experience…
We could have gotten crazy our last night in Tokyo, but instead I fell asleep in my Minnie outfit. The next morning we rolled out for our flight back to Beijing… and how depressing that was.
All trips back to Beijing hold similar emotions…. this time, in addition, I was holding my nose in flight, feeling all the things.
I’m not a crier, especially not in public. Sure, a good Hallmark will get me from time to time (… put on a movie with a dog, and you’ll get me every time), but I’ll let out a fake yawn as the tears flow and quickly wipe my face.
However, I am now not only a frequent flyer, but also a frequent crier as of December in the friendly skies.
I suppose being so high up, in the clouds, with the changing colors of the sky, that I find myself as close as can be to one of my best friends.
In these moments, I talk to him, remember him, remember us.
Although, on my final flight from Beijing to Chicago, not only did I cry for the loss of Chris, but also for the loss of my year in China.
I’ve said it before, this year was hard. We dealt with a lot of shit and there were times I did not deal with it well.
I became frustrated, manipulative, depressed, angry… but no matter which stage in life you are, or where you are, it’s not always going to be easy. Life can be f*ing hard.
“You cannot always control your situation, but you can control how you react to it”
With all of my moaning and groaning about the smells, the food, the bad manners… I can’t help, but remember all of the beautiful people I have met, the random acts of kindness shown to me, and how spectacular and vast this world truly is.
In recent situations, I took a more empathetic approach. We are all human, each of us having our own faults, but also our own strengths, perspectives, and feelings.
This post is a contradiction to the last.
My last days in China, my eyes, ears, and heart were more open. More aware. I saw the positive over the negative.
I recognized that I didn’t go through this year alone.
My family and friends back home were there for me, providing never-ending love. They laughed with me, cried with me, and during difficult times supported me. They listened and offered advice after an emotional day, but never judged. They monitored and tracked my location. They also shared their life with me… so that I never felt too far away.
Laura, Charity, and Jordan. Together, we traveled, confided, laughed, cried, screamed, gossiped, and forgave. As a group, we went through our own rollercoaster. We have our differences, but this experience brought us together.
We formed a bond that cannot be broken. I toast each of you, appreciative of the roles you played in my life this past year.
My students, their parents, and a handful of the Chinese teachers & staff- they were the light in an often dark school.
Oona. For the cuddles, love, companionship, and always keeping me on my toes.
I suppose this is what happens at the end of a journey. We become softer, kinder. I can only hope that I carry this mentality into my next journey… having my eyes, ears, and heart be more open. More aware.
Bearer of Blonde News 