Southern Road Trip Loop
Chicago-Nashville-Savannah-Hilton Head-Charleston-Asheville-Chicago
Traveling in the midst of the “second wave” of a pandemic is not the easiest task… However, it can be done and holds both positives and negatives. Each city held varying restrictions and were going in and out of different phases. We said hello’s to Nashville, Savannah, Hilton Head, Charleston and Asheville. A beautiful Southern “loop”… with 2 dogs.
BBQ, Broadway and country singers to make a gal swoon… Nashville, thankfully had just progressed into a new “phase” where restaurants, bars, and activities could re-open. After checking into our cute, studio, AirBNB, we left the pups and headed to Edley’s in 12South for dinner. My Mom had the brisket platter with Mac-n-cheese and coleslaw and I opted for the BBQ pork platter with Mac-n-cheese and beans. After 7+ hours in a car, packing and unpacking 2 pups, we salvaged our delicious grub. This being my 7th time in Nashville, and having my full of BBQ throughout this fine city, I chose Edley’s for my one dinner in Nashville, which says a lot. We sat outside, it wasn’t crowded, the service and food was phenomenal, and I already cannot wait to go back. 12 South wasn’t expressing its hip vibe, as the streets were bare and shops (including Draper James) were not yet open for business, which was a bit depressing and one of the many negatives of pandemic traveling.
Unfortunately, “Kickin’ back with the boys down at Santa’s Pub” wasn’t an option either as it remains closed until further notice. We did stumble across a fabulous dog park across the street from the pub, so we went back to the apartment for the dogs. I don’t know why we even try. A gorgeous and clean dog park with happy, active dogs… and my 2 just hung out near the exit waiting for their way out.
We debated Uber’ing to Broadway, but with less tourism, we were able to find a free parking spot around the corner from the Ryman Auditorium.
We checked out the AMAZING live music at Legends, Tootsies, The Stage, and the very end of a set at Mellow Mushroom. After drinks at each spot, we were feeling snacky. We ordered the Great White, an uptake of a Margherita Pizza at Mellow Mushroom. I don’t usually opt for or recommend pizza while traveling, especially being from Chicago, but this was sooo good! It was the perfect mix of ingredients and tasted incredibly fresh.
I could have spent hours on Broadway popping into each bar, but with the drive to Savannah the next day, we sadly said good-bye.
The drive to Savannah was about 8 hours with a few short stops and a bit of traffic. Wednesday we would be spending the day in Savannah, so Tuesday night, we quickly unpacked at our AirBNB and changed for the beach! We drove the 20+ minutes to Tybee Island, circling around a bit to find North Beach. Tybee Island wasn’t what I had expected the layout to be. I envisioned a Main St. full of restaurants, bars, boutiques and coffee shops, and even though Tybee offers all of the above, it is all very spread out. It is not a walkable island- you’d need a car, bike…. Or golf cart to maneuver around. We popped by North Beach and then drove to the restaurant to put our name in. Only having one night on the Island, we chose the Crab Shack based off of a recommendation from a friend. With over an hour wait, we put ourselves on the waitlist, and drove the few minutes back to North Beach for some relaxation. It’s a beautiful beach surrounded by stunning ocean homes and the Tybee Lighthouse is within view. Time went by quickly and we once again were at the Crab Shack, this time at our table with its own personal garbage can built into the middle. Extremely convenient for what we were about to order! My gawd, it was one of the best meals I have had in my life. A plate full of snow crab legs, shrimp, andouille sausage, corn, potatoes and a side of butter to drench it all in! I accompanied it with their Key Lime margarita and couldn’t have been happier. We had a view of the marsh, and even though outside, we were protected from the storm with their partial roof. We loved Tybee so much, that we decided to wake up early and come back the next morning!
Our phones hadn’t switched over so when we awoke, we thought, “On time- For once!”, but really we had lost an hour in our already jam packed day in Georgia. We then only had an hour at North Beach (Also, make sure you pay the parking meter fee or on the app! They patrol and do ticket, so be aware of your time!) and stopped for Frappe’s and a muffin at Tybean Coffee and Art. It’s located in this quaint, artsy outlet off of the main road.
After changing out of our beach wear, we drove into Savannah. We rode the Old Town Trolley throughout Savannah and learned their interesting history through the stops. We did get off at Stop 2 and walked to Mrs. Wilke’s Dining Room. We ordered ONE of their take-out meals, and it was enough to feed AT LEAST 3 people. We ordered their meatloaf, 2 sides of mac and cheese, and 1 side of mashed potatoes. It also came with an iced tea and slice of pound cake. It was DIVINE and I only wish I was able to eat more of it.
We popped into a few boutiques, received a short tour and lit a candle at The Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist, walked past historic homes, got a *Dreamsickle* (alcoholic slushie) at Wet Willie’s, and did a wine tasting at The Georgia Tasting Room.
On our trolley tour, our guide persuaded us to tour the Prohibition Museum. The Museum provided quite a bit of interesting history, included amazing artifacts, and being a Chicago girl, showed me what my city was like during the days of Al Capone and other famous gangsters. The best part, a speakeasy, found in the midst of the museum where a mixologist whipped up delicious concoctions. My Mom opted for the brandy alexander made with Leopold’s vanilla ice cream and I, the Aviator. Both were delicious! You can relax in their lounge or take your cocktail with you while you tour the remainder of the exhibitions.
After a (hot) day in Savannah we went back to the AirBNB to freshen up and check in on the pups. Pirate House had reopened its dining room the week before and we were lucky to get a reservation! We both chose their famous honey pecan fried chicken with green beans and mashed sweet potatoes. The portion was generous and the chicken dripped with their honey pecan sauce. All this time later and I can still taste the perfectly fried chicken with hints of sweetness.
For dessert, we waited in line for Leopold’s… We both chose flavors that were original from 1919. Mom chose the Lemon Custard and I the Rum Bisque. There is a reason why Leopold’s ALWAYS has a line- it’s phenomenal!
Last minute, we added on a Ghosts and Gravestones Tour with Old Town Trolley as well. We booked the 10:40pm tour and were able to see Savannah at night. We heard the haunting stories of the Pirate House, and were able to tour one of the historic homes. At the end they took us to a River Street’s Perkins and Sons Ship Chandlery for a haunting (and a tad cheesy) tale.
The next morning and it being only a short drive to Hilton Head, we stopped by for some time at the beach and a light breakfast. I had researched the parking situation prior to arrival, but once there went in circles, until I found the entrance was off the main road. Sadly, this left only a short time to explore the beach as dogs were not welcome after 10am. However, with only an hour spent on Hilton Head… had my Mom on Zillow for weeks after, planning her “big move”. We both cannot wait to go back on a family trip or…. Forever.
Hilton Head is pristine… from their beautiful beaches, boardwalks, and facilities to their shops, restaurants and all of those getting around the Island on their bikes or the town golf cart trolley.
Charleston, my favorite city was next! We ate The Codfather and shared the fish and chips. It was enough for 2 people, but honestly, I could have eaten the meal all by myself 😉
We arrived at our AirBNB on John’s Island, which was absolutely adorable and I highly recommend it! It was only about an 8-minute drive into Charleston. We reserved a tour with Palmetto Carriages, which uses working mules rather than horses, and toured one on the routes through Charleston.
I was disappointed that I couldn’t introduce my Mom to the Palace Hotel, downing a PBR with a tasty hot dog, so I settled with a Moscow Mule on tap at Rarebit. Being a Southern Charm Junkie I had to pay homage to my favorite Southern Charmers.
With that being said, after a Happy Hour dinner at El Jefe (consisting of margaritas, tacos, and chips/salsa), I parked my car and got up close to the Issac Jenkins-Mitchell House, home to none other than Patricia Altschul.
We were planning on driving through other Charleston sites, until we realized we had earlier left in a rush and hadn’t properly locked up the dogs. Terrified of the possible chaos that had ensued over the previous 5+ hours, we rushed back. Thankfully, all was well at the Airbnb and no messes were made. We called it an early night, as most of the wild night life (and crazy day drinking life) have ceased since March ‘20. The boarded-up bars and shops on King Street, plus the lack of people was a bit eerie.
We woke up bright and early, and headed to Isle of Palms for a morning of relaxation. We grabbed a prime parking spot and in the early morning shared the vast beach with only a few others. The water was pleasant and while basking in the sun had me wishing we had more time in South Carolina.
We ate blackened grouper at Ellis Creek Fish Camp and the dogs ate a meal of turkey and veggies 😊 It is the perfect place to bring your pets as the outdoor area provides a relaxed and inviting area for both adults and your fur babies.
We saved Rainbow Row and the Pineapple Fountain for our final stops before the drive to Asheville. We tried to involve the dogs in this “lovely” jaunt, but the sun was powerful and the heat overwhelming, making the experience far from enjoyable.
The ride to Asheville is about 4 hours from Charleston, and again we chose to stay in an AirBNB about 10 minutes from the city. We were shocked to see signs, cautioning that bears roam this residential area.
As most restaurants, bar, and breweries had shortened their hours we needed to get a move on. We had drinks at Greenman Brewery, and then dinner and beers at The Funkatorium, sister company to Wicked Weed. Funkatorium has all Wicked Weed beers, plus their sour beers. At Funkatorium we shared their pizza and chicken wings.
The next morning we set out on an all day adventure. We had tickets to the Biltmore Estate for 10:30, but due to the long wait at Biscuit Head we rescheduled to a later time. First thing first, Biscuit Head… I got the Pulled Pork biscuit (pulled pork, jalapeno pimento, bacon, poached egg, and maple syrup) with a maple bacon latte. It was totally worth the wait AND pushing back Biltmore. My Mom had their mimosa fried chicken biscuit with sweet potato butter, sriracha slaw and a poached egg- which was equally as tasty.
We had an appointment at the Asheville Salt Cave to relax and unwind. We were in the community “Mama” salt cave, with 3 others. We sat/laid in Zero Gravity chairs, amidst 4 walls and a ceiling of Himalayan Pink Salt. As I relaxed, I let my hands drift through the crumbled salt, trying to soak in all of the healing benefits. My Mom an I were told, 45 minutes in a salt cave is equivalent to 4 days at the Ocean. We both left happier ladies.
As we had some spare time, we went into downtown Asheville. There are blocks and blocks of the neatest shops, including some very hippie stores. My Mom bought a crystal, and I bought a happy looking tee, with an RV bus, flowers, peace signs and all slapped right on the front. We picked up pastries from Old Europe including their peanut butter mousse cake. We ate our pastries in one of the downtowns main squares, during a protest. Fitting.
As our new tickets were for 2:30, we arrived around 2. We didn’t realize the scheduled ticket time was for the entrance of the house only. You can arrive into Biltmore Estate at any time (I suggest earlier, the better) and spend the day there. You can definitely spend the whole day at Biltmore as there is so much to do. Only arriving at 2 had us choosing what to see and what not to see which was disappointing.
We did see, however, a black bear crossing the road as we drove the long road towards the Biltmore House. I was so happy I was able to capture it on camera! It definitely made us slow down and enjoy the ride, as we looked for other animals we may run across.
We started at the House- due to Covid they now do reservations for the House as they only allow a certain amount of people in per time, as well as, per room. This was quite nice and made the experience more enjoyable as you weren’t elbow to elbow with the person next to you.
The house is a sight to see-it’s magnificent. They restored the home to what it would have been in the early 1900’s. I can’t fathom what it would have been like to be a guest at the home during its glory days, yet alone live here. The details that went into each room and overall beauty will take your breath away.
From the entry way to the dining room to the indoor pool—it was all so Great Gatsby.
We were able to make it through the whole home in about an hour, with the audio tour. I highly recommend the audio tour rather than just going about the home on your own. It provided both history and fun stories about the Vanderbilt family.
With limited time, we bypassed the gardens, only driving by as we opted for the Downton Abbey Exhibit and the Winery. I’m a huge Downton fan, so I loved seeing the artifacts from the show and learning more about that time.
Unfortunately, because of social distancing and new guidelines, the Winery was at minimal capacity for their complimentary wine tastings and the next reservation was hours out. I’d suggest making a reservation and then heading to the Downton exhibit while you wait. We did stroll through the shop and their little shopping village.
As we drove through Biltmore, there were so many people enjoying their day- picnicking, kayaking, bike riding, walking, etc. Biltmore offers an annual membership, so many people who live near Asheville enjoy the expansive grounds year-round… or just pop in to grab an ice cream from the village 🙂
We decided to take the dogs out for an evening with us. We took them to White Duck Taco Shop where we humans had dinner. We ordered a few different tacos: Mole Roasted Duck, Bangkok Shrimp, Lamb Gyro, and the Thai Peanut Chicken- each one fabulous. We sat outside at one of their many picnic tables. It’s a perfect place for a low-key, outdoor meal.
We finished off our Southern road trip with drinks at Antidote at Chemist Spirits. Such a hip spot, with a great outdoor patio and an inside that resembles a swanky speakeasy. Their distillery shop where you can purchase their spirits, is set up as a pharmacy from the 20’s. Very cool. And it is a women-owned distillery! Antidote is also right next door to the Funkatorium, and down the street from a slew of breweries. Such a neat area to explore and brew hop! Unfortunately, with everything closing early, we were one and done.
After loading up the car, saddened by having to say good bye to the South, we popped into one more of Asheville’s finest for a pick me up. We couldn’t leave Asheville without trying one of their famous sesame donuts from Hole Doughnuts. Being made fresh to order, the line grew and grew. Note to others, order prior to arrival. We waited almost 50 minutes for 2 donuts and a coffee. However, do I regret the wait? Absolutely not. My only regret is not ordering a bakers dozen for the car ride home!
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