Portugal

I was once a gal who thrived on strict itineraries, and sometimes I still do… however, my weekend in Portugal was last minute and allowed for more spontaneous sites and adventures.

Arriving in Lisbon, I was grateful that I was able to catch a public bus right outside of Arrivals for $2E that arrived 1 block from my hostel. There are many other options, including an Airport Express, but they are not yet operational post Covid and many people were confused and waiting on a bus that was not coming. Check updated schedules and google maps for the easiest route to get into the city.

I chose Lisbon Destination Hostel for its location and convenience as it is located in Rossi Station. It’s clean, hip, and offers pod style beds for privacy. They also have a sister property that has a rooftop pool, and both hostels host plenty of fun daily and evening activities. I loved their unique and open lobby, and how friendly all were… an awesome experience.

Arriving early, I was able to freshen up and store my luggage before I set out to walk the town. I first stopped to admire the Elevador de Santa Justa. It was built in 1902 and it connects the lower streets with the higher streets. I then headed towards Pink Street, popping into various boutiques (the ceramic and tile shops were exquisite), and the oldest bookstore in the World: Livraria Bertrand, founded in 1732, according to the Guinness World Records. It was as if you were going through a tunnel with pop offs into different genres. I picked up a novel from their small English section, as well as, an adorable children’s book which guides them through the sites of Lisbon. Both books I had stamped that they were bought from Bertrand’s. There is a beautiful Basilica next to Bertrand: Basilica of Our Lady of the Martyrs. It was nice to take a few, quiet minutes from the lively streets of the Chiado neighborhood.

On Pink Street, as it was early afternoon, there were numerous outdoor tables available at their many restaurants and bars. I ordered sangria and side plates at Rio Grande: Olives, a traditional soft cheese, and bread. Later in the afternoon and into the night, Pink Street overflows with people, becoming quite the night scene.

I then wandered over to Cais do Sodré, and relaxed along the Tagus River. It was so beautiful to relax in their adirondack chairs and loungers overlooking the water, watching the boats pass and the scenic backgrounds.

I back tracked to Carmo Convent, a former Catholic Convent. The ruined arches are a reminder of the worst day in Portugal history which took place on All Saints Day, November 1, 1755. The magnitude 9 earthquake left 85% of the city in ruins and killed upwards of 100,000 people. It was stunning, a site not to be missed. The exhibits, artwork and artifacts that are displayed are fascinating.

I decided to walk the winding “hills” back to the hostel. The hostel had advertised a “Fado & Dinner” walking tour that evening through Destination Tours. A small group of people representing 8 countries walked the streets of Lisbon, where Fado was originated. We popped off at various scenic spots (including Castle Hill & Portas Do Sol), listening to history and stories, between the neighborhoods, Mouraria and Alfama. We ended the evening, enjoying a traditional Portuguese dinner while listening to talented Fado singers and musicians. I chose the Cod Fish with Eggs. It was not what I had expected (in the best way), and was surprisingly delicious. It reminded me of a breakfast hash brown casserole, with bites of cod fish. I accompanied it with a glass of vinho verde (green wine). It was such a beautiful evening, that ended around midnight and the walk back through the streets and alleys of Lisbon was enjoyable and safe for a solo traveler.

The next morning, I took a stroll near my hostel and indulged in Portuguese delicacies. I ordered Pastel de Nata’s at Manteigaria on Augusta Street. I’d fly back to Portugal just for those delicious egg custard tart pastries… I wish I had the time to go to Belem and try them at Pasteis de Belem, as I heard by many they are the best- it’s already been added to my itinerary for the next time I visit Lisbon!

I then had lunch at Cerve Jaria Ramiro. It was recommended by friends who used to live in Lisbon, and it was by far the most incredible meal… I ordered the Gambas a la Aguillo (Shrimps on Garlic) and the Prego (Steak) sandwich with a ½ bottle of Rose. Definitely come with an appetite, and don’t load up on Pastel de Nata’s prior 😉 My communal table mates suggested the Scarlet Shrimps for my next visit.

I then took one of the many buses to Fatima. From the bus station there are blocks of hotels. I booked through Orbitz the Hotel Lux, and being one of the most luxurious hotels in town only set me back $65 for a suite. I took some time to relax at their pool, and then walked the 2 blocks to the religious site.

I stopped into a few stores along the way, picking up rosaries, holy water, and a candle for the evening procession.

I walked along the Recint admiring the many statues of Saints before entering the impressive Basilica. Unfortunately, I had forgotten that the tombs of Francisco and Jacinta were in the Basilica.

At 6:30 I attended mass in the Chapel of the Apparitions, and then lit candles. As I had time before the Rosary and Candlelight Procession, I went back to the hotel for a 30min relaxation massage. It was lovely and well needed after hiking the hills of Lisbon.

At 8:30, was the Rosary which was said in multiple languages and absolutely beautiful. I can only imagine the scene and the crowd during times prior to Covid.

The entire evening was serene and moving.

Due to my bus leaving early the next morning, I was unable to take part in the Via Sacre (Holy Way)” the site of Our Lady’s 4^th apparition, the site where the children received their first and third visit of the Angel of Peace, and the homes of the little Shepherds.

When leaving the bus station back in Lisbon, I shopped at LIDL for souvenirs- pastel de nata’s, face creams/serums, and wine. While abroad I always look for an Aldi or Lidl for fun finds.

With my luggage and bags of goodies, I uber’ed back to Lisbon Destination Hostel. I freshened up and began the journey to Sintra. Sintra: what a colorful and magical town… I bought the daily bus pass for $10 (Quick tip: sit at the furthest train car, so you can be one of the first to exit and first in line for the city bus), and rode to the first stop: Pena Palace. At the palace, for an additional $3 you can purchase with your ticket a roundtrip tram ride up/down the hill to the palace… In the heat, I paid the extra $3.

Pena Palace, the “Jewel of Sintra”, looks straight out of a fairy tale. The bright colors and patterns, provide a photo op at every turn.

I then had lunch at Tascatinga, which was recommended by new friends from the Fado Tour. Now, I will recommend it to everyone visiting Sintra. It is Tapas & Wine (& beer- Sagres is a must while in Portugal!), and I ordered the Azeitao cheese with figs and smoked ham, fried chicken wings with barbecue sauce and lime, fried prawns with garlic and coriander, and for dessert- pumpkin “petit gateaux” with curd cheese ice cream, honey, and walnuts.

The atmosphere at Tascatinga is truly quaint European. The restaurant is stooped upon a hill, and utterly romantic… the perfect place to enjoy lunch or dinner.

A tuk tuk driver offered to drive me to my final destination in Sintra: Quinta da Regaleira. The Quinta has to be one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. The estate consists of a palace, chapel, a luxurious park, lakes, grottoes, and the picturesque Initiation Well. At this estate, you will get your workout in… with steep hills, stairs, and endless sites to see. Be sure to follow the map closely, I near missed the Initiation Well, as I kept making wrong twists and turns.

I walked down into town, and the streets were welcoming and bustling with people. My day in Sintra was more than I could have imagined… and during my next visit I will set more time aside to visit the other Sintra landmarks and town.