And only one week after returning from Christmas break, we were jet setting once again. This time to Vietnam, Thailand, and another week back in the Polar Vortex.
We landed in Vietnam in the middle of the night… Prime time for the Government Immigration and Customs employees. Word for the wise: If you are traveling to Vietnam, or a country that provides Visa’s upon arrival and state that they only accept cash, bring cash. Don’t expect Lady Luck to be in your favor, that there will be an ATM exactly where and when you need it. Cash only Visa’s is how these government workers really make their cash’ish, and we were prime for the picking.
“J” had one job this trip: handling the Vietnam Visa. Knowing we would need a combined $50usd cash, the gamble was taken and we showed up with 200RMB and 8USD. Since this was on her, I offered a suggestion of asking other foreigners for cash that we could then PayPal or Zelle. Dismissing the idea, I sat back and watched J unravel, wondering her next move.
I found her in a corner outside of the office taking cash from the Customs officer, who had to pick through his large wad for the right amount of bills, which she then handed in with our passports to complete the visa. I asked her if she had checked how much she was given and to convert the currency for when we went to the outdoor ATM. 15 minutes later and passport in hand, we were led past a guard to stamp us into Vietnam and on to baggage claim. ATM’s were outside of the airport which the officer escorted us to, to get reimbursed. J handed him 2million VND, what he had asked for, and I followed suit thinking the conversion had been calculated. Graciously, he ran out to get us a cab to our hostel.
Easy breezy, right? While enroute to the hostel, I was able to get my currency converter app to work… That man had a wad of bills, and for good reason. We each handed him $86usd for a $25usd Visa. This is what happens when you delegate tasks.
As we bickered in the backseat, only an hour into our holiday, our cab driver laughed humorously the whole ride… Didn’t speak a lick of English, but knew exactly what was being said.
The image of him and the sound of his laughter over our first “scamming”, softened the blow and later brings a smile to my face, while making me laugh a little out loud.
We checked into Dango Hostel, in DaNang- a pleasant hostel with friendly staff, clean rooms and made to order breakfast each morning, only 2 blocks from the beach.
Arriving so late into the night, we decided to sleep in the next day and enjoy a carefree day in this beautiful city. Originally, I had only planned DaNang as a connection to Hoi An, but I’m so grateful we took a day and a half here. Thanks Chris for the suggestion 🙂
We scoped out the beach, which had a huge surfer scene and grabbed a smoothie from a Vegan Cafe. We then spent a few hours at the Marble Mountains… which pictures don’t do justice.
Within caves, there were hidden caves… where believers offer sacrifices to Buddha in form of flowers, food and drinks.
In one particular cave, past the Buddha there is a steep incline which I thought led only to a vast opening. As I have a fear of rocks, I stayed back as Jordan and 2 others hiked up. People kept coming into the cave, hiking up, but no one ever came down… So, when one older gent proceeded to hike up, 1/2 way I saw him turn around and head back down. I told him, “Yeah, I couldn’t do it either.”
A minute later, he comes back into the cave, saying, “Oh, what the hell!”
He made his way up, so I call out after, “Oh, what the hell!”
Stupid.
I made my way up alright. Only to find a vast opening, where the only way out was to “rock climb” up a steeper, more dangerous incline.
Nope.
I stood there staring dumbfounded, pacing back and forth between the “entrance” and “exit” for what seemed an eternity. I kept waiting for a foreigner, most likely an older foreigner that realized they couldn’t make the trek… as well. As more people of all ages passed me, an older Irish couple finally saved me. When they decided their only way out was the way they came in, I latched on. This couple literally had to talk me down, and take MY hand. Jordan at last found her way back to me, with perfect timing, watching this all go down.
The Marble Mountains were majestic with their exquisite caves, Buddha’s, and views of DaNang- a site not to be missed. However, after that single and specific experience, I was done.
Back in the area of our hostel, we walked the neighborhood stopping for lunch at Tam’s Surf Shop, for burgers- hands down amazing veggie burgers! We scouted out spa’s before deciding on a 5 hour spa package which included a massage, body scrub, foot reflexology, facial, mani and pedi for $30usd. It was a blissful experience, for the exception of being ushered into a utility closet, to shower off the scrub.
Either or, I’m clearly living in the wrong country.
As time was passing quickly, we rushed over to the Dragon Bridge for the “Fire and Water” show. The bridge gets closed down each Saturday night at 9pm as the dragon breathes out fire and then spouts of water, all while changing colors. Very cool thing to check out while in DaNang over a weekend.
After, we walked to the Night Market where we ate spring rolls and drank beers while we browsed the many stalls.
The next morning, we woke early to get a head start to Sun World, Ba Na Hills. Vietnam’s amusement park is a tourist trap at best, but their Golden Bridge is putting DaNang on the map. What I like to call, “Gods Hands” is an incredible site and is no wonder why it’s blowing up on Instagram and Pinterest. I’m grateful we rolled out early, as we were able to do photo-ops without strangers lingering in our pictures.
We did partake in the silly rides, which were underground and unleashed our inner kids at heart. We rode swings, the not so “giant” drop, and purposefully crashed into one another’s bumper carts… every time I would bump into an Asian, they would become flustered, while politely apologizing…. only for me to just crash right back into them again 😉
Another fun fact of Sun World, they hold the Guinness Book of World Records for longest cable car… the ride was smooth and the amazing views were vast. Oh, and while there, we grabbed a few Vietnamese doughnuts fresh off the fryer… Mmmm…
After waking up our driver from his nap, we headed back into the city. With a few hours to spare before our ride to Hoi An, we got our eyelashes done for a whopping $7usd, and stopped for a seafood lunch. We sat at a table with a view of the beach and after given a menu were told to go to the outdoor market and pick what we would like to be put into our meal.
We looked through the numerous tanks as I fiddled with my translator, unsure how to even start the process. Feeling and looking confused, we were finally approached by a gent who spoke English. We told him we wanted the rice and noodles, and he ordered for us… Apparently, when you order off the menu, “picking” is not required. Sigh.
It was time to say goodbyes to DaNang and take the short trip to Hoi An. Oh, Hoi An, how I love you so. This quaint town is everything and more. We pulled up to our AirBNB and literally had to pick our jaws up off the floor. Initially, more friends were to join, so I had booked a 3 bedroom, 2 bath home… What we were staying in was a dream… An entrance and garden lit by numerous lanterns, an open floor plan with a loft feel, and a welcoming cross breeze from the entire house being “open”…. Everytime we returned to our Hoi An home, I had to pinch myself to make sure it was ours… if only for a few days.
We were greeted by our AirBNB hosts, with fresh fruit and sweet tea, and told a bit about the area. Minutes later, we set off. I told myself I didn’t need to make any purchases, but who am I kidding? Leather shops, tailors, and the most original boutiques lined the lantern hung streets. I came home with a “Good Morning Vietnam” tank (duh, of course), a leather purse, and a few items made at the tailor which I would pick up the next day….
No day in SE Asia is complete without a massage. We received a foot reflexology massage and my God… I yelped like a little girl. Pulling up google images, and searching pressure points on the foot, I self diagnosed my liver is in severe trouble. I can see it now, busting into the Doctors office when back in the States… while having proper medical insurance… demanding my liver be tested due to a foot massage received in Vietnam. My doctors already expect this of me, knowing my long relationship with WebMD.
That night, J and I checked out the Old Quarter. We had dinner along the river where we watched people in gondola’s let off their wishes… Naturally, that was what we did next. We took a 10 minute ride up and down the river, each of us letting off our own wish.
We strolled through the Night Market, popping in for a drink and a shot at one of the many themed bars that lined the street, before taxi’ing home….
Monday was our day to explore Hoi An in its fullest… We started the morning at Faifo Coffee… Their rooftop is one of a kind and spent the day in various shops including ArtBook which sells the coolest souvenirs and unique movie posters… I actually read a blog on Hoi An and the writer mentioned this store. Her and her husband bought numerous movie posters while in Hoi An, and I remember casting shade their way for doing so… then there I am, in the same shop, buying the same posters. Shrug.
We took pictures at the Japanese Bridge, explored alleyways which reminded me of Europe which led to their own little gems, and had tea and biscuits at the Reaching Out Tea House. Reaching Out Tea House is staffed by deaf employees, and all that is served is made by those with physical disabilities. They have a Craft Shop down the street run by those with disabilities and you are able to walk through their factory where all of the items within their shop are made… Quilts, clothing, lanterns, dish ware, jewelry… I bought very unique lanterns and picture frames made of various fabrics. All profits from both businesses go right back to those with disabilities throughout Vietnam. Phenomenal.
On our way back to the house to get ready for the evening, we stopped by the tailor. Thank God this woman had a sense of humor, and appreciated mine because my Pinterest dress, turned out to be a Pinterest fail. It was a dress by JCREW, however, what I received was a black trash bag… or VIP hospital gown at best. I was appalled and did very little to conceal my horror.
After a few good laughs, we decided to turn the trash bag into a top and with the extra fabric a tie for my Dad. Thank God these people work around the clock on busting out alterations…. The tankini top was on point, which only had me purchasing another in a different color, with a slightly different style.
We decided Monday night was as good a night as ever, to get dolled up and have a fancy night. We made reservations at Morning Glory, and had a fantastic dinner full of appetizers, entrees, and a bottle of wine. We shared rice paper wraps with shrimp, wontons, and for entrees prawn curry and prawns within a pineapple. For dessert, we went to one of the hidden gems we found earlier, “Secret Garden”. Of course, another gondola ride was taken… We gals needed to put all our wishes out there…
After an expat bar… or two… and as closing time is 12am in HoiAn, it was time to head home…. We were tired, and took the first offer… a ride with men on motorbikes all for the low price of $5.
Zipping though the deserted streets of Hoi An in the middle of the night, was an experience in and of itself.
On to other experiences. Today, was the first of our scheduled adventures. First, I was put on a water buffalo to ride on land and in water. Disgusting. Terrifying. The bugs flying on this thing, that would bite from time to time, had me convinced I had contracted malaria. Shiver… Yes, the ground was not far from me, but the fear of falling off was real. I clung to that tiny Vietnamese guide like my life depended on it. I only wanted, off.
We were then taken to a local market, to pick up items we would later use in our cooking class. Women and men slaughtered animals right before our eyes, pulling apart their organs… blood everywhere. It was enough to make me question becoming a vegetarian, but not quite enough to pull the plug all together.
Then… the experience that had been blowing up my own Pinterest board, and my main reason for visiting Vietnam. I was giddy when handed my “rice hat”, nearly jumping into the coconut bowl “boat” with my elderly Vietnamese guide, whom we called Auntie.
We posed for pictures, she rowed us through the rice paddies, and we all joined in with other coconut riders, singing and dancing to “Gangnam Style”.
The long, relaxing ride was everything I had hoped for and more!
The Aunties paddled us all the way to our cooking class, which over looked the river and rice paddies. We cooked numerous, authentic Vietnamese dishes in our private cooking class.
Just be ware of the cooking oil… It’s hot and will burn your hand and arm if a spring roll is dropped into it. Just saying.
After devouring our delicious meal, we were on our way back to the Tailors to check out my updated trash bag. They did great, I only asked that the Vneck be a tad bit lower 😉 and it was sent back once again, along with my 2nd tankini top which needed shortening.
I spotted the cutest summer dress in another tailor shop, and after talking her down to $22, I was measured and told to come back in a few hours for my first fitting. In those few hours, J went to a leather shop to have a purse designed and I was in need of a nap. That water buffalo took a lot out of me…
On our way to our last dinner in Hoi An, I had my first fitting of my new dress, which only needed slight alterations. We had dinner at an outdoor restaurant along the river. I opted for Italian as I was realizing I’m not the biggest fan of Vietnamese cuisine… It’s like China, there is only so much rice (fried or otherwise) that one can eat.
Our last morning in Hoi An was spent picking up our items from the tailor shops, and grabbing drinks, cabana style at An Bang Beach. Unlike the Korean Instagrammers and social media hounds, J and I decided to relax and soak up the rays with a few pina coladas.
Did we have time for one last Hoi An foot massage before the airport? No, but we gambled with time anyhow…. Would we have done it differently looking back? Most definitely. Getting ourselves out of Hoi An was a nightmare. I just had to have my eyelashes fixed before our 3 day party cruise the next morning, stopping in the shop while J went to grab our luggage, scrambling for all of our laundry drying throughout the house, and with the driver packed the car. I came back to find her running down the street towards town to find an ATM. We needed cash only for our taxi. As the driver didn’t understand what was happening, I was instructed to get into the car, as the driver waited impatiently. Minutes later J came running back, handed me the money to give to the AirBNB host who had set up our taxi, however gave me the wrong amount. Let’s try this again.
Finally, both of us were in the car, ready to take off, now, 30 minutes later than our scheduled departure. Jordan looks at me and our luggage, asking me if I had grabbed my purse off of the table. Glaring, I started yelling at the driver to let me out of the car, but he wouldn’t as he didn’t understand and we were already late. I had been locked in. Finally, he knew I wasn’t going to back down, and I jumped out of the taxi, running back to the house to get my purse. By the grace of God, we made it to the airport, with minutes to spare before boarding.
Once in HaNoi, we were notified that our AirBNB had a water issue and we were taken to HOLO Fairy Hostel for the night. This hostel is legit. We each were given our own private room, with a luxurious bathroom, and best of all- Netflix. We were actually able to watch our shows, on something larger than an IPad screen for the first time in all of our months in Asia.
We met our crew outside of the Cacoon Hostel and boarded the bus for our 4 hour journey to HaLong Bay. We’d be spending the next 3 days, 2 nights aboard the Oasis Bay Party Cruise and their private island, Freedom Island.
We settled into our Bayview Suite and then dined on a very filling lunch while the guides provided the day’s itinerary, giving 2 instructions: We were warned NOT to jump off the top deck… as someone broke their back 2 weeks before. For them, that was just too much paperwork to have to repeat. Also, if we wanted to kill ourselves, not to do it on their time- again, too much paperwork.
Bathing suits on, 40+ party goers hopped into one of the 6 on board hot tubs, dived off the boat (NOT the top deck), jumped on the water trampoline, and/or went on the kayaking excursion. Ohhh… J and my first kayaking excursion together. Sharing a kayak, we had to get our groove, which took more than a bit as we crashed into rocks, yelling at each other. After a few, “right, left, right, left” we got it together, until we crashed while in the cave. Welp, practice makes perfect?
Back on board, the next event: Beer Yoga. With 2 beers and 2 straws, we did the downward facing dog, childs and cobra pose, the push up plank, and warrior poses all up, down, and sideways into our beer.
The rest of the evening consisted of yet another feast, trivia, dance party, and hot tubbing. I told the crew I needed to use the restroom, performing the Irish Exit. Basically, I just really like to sleep.
Hours later, J stormed in the room, waking me up, yelling, “I lost my cell phone!”, only to run back out of the room. Rolling over, I went right back to sleep.
The next morning, I found J in the next bed, who had fallen asleep in a wet bikini. Calm and collected, she woke up, saying she lost her cell phone AND her clothes.
We went on a 7am search for these items, while other party goers were still fast asleep, finding her belongings safely, behind the main bar.
When breakfast ended, those who were headed back to land, and those on to Freedom Island were divided. As the 9 of us sailed off towards the island, friends waved us on, yelling about bets unpaid from the night before 😉 Totally thought the Sweeds would end up with the Mexicans….
There’s always a first for everything, and luckily for me I was one of the few without a a rough start. As everyone else tried to sleep away their nausea and migraines, I was able to lay back and enjoy the morning views of HaLong Bay… A boat ride and dinghy ride later we arrived. Little did we know, that on Freedom Island, we would be playing Survivor.
On Freedom Island, you were given the *freedom* to relax on the beach or on the hammocks spread throughout the island… or partake in swimming, beach volleyball, drinking games, or kayaking….
I chose to bask in the sun, until Jordan convinced me to join the Kayaking through the Bay. Even though the day before proved a double kayak wasn’t the most compatible choice for J and I, we were stuck with yet another double kayak.
A few minutes in and our kayak began to accumulate water within. It began harder to keep up with the group, however we continued to trek along. “It’ll be fine”, we said.
We said this, until we no longer were fine. Our group, including our guide, was nowhere to be seen. We needed to turn back before the green death trap we were in took us under.
Enroute back 2 local Vietnamese men, collecting clams called us over to them. I thought, ‘what’s a few feet out of the way’, saying to J, “It’s about the experience.”
The clammers showed us their work, and placed handfuls of clams into our already sinking kayak.
Thanking them, we rowed away with determination. Moments later we not only sank, but capsized while in shallow water, our bodies striking the clam rocks.
My initial reaction was to apologize to the clammers for losing and wasting their clams that they had worked so hard for.
We jumped back in to our kayak, almost immediately capsizing once again.
Blood gushing from my leg and what felt like holes in my feet, I knew the kayak would not get us all the way to shore. My only option was to swim, and J, using the kayak as a paddle board. Both of us, against the current, in the middle of the ocean, trying to get to safety.
J sank once more, and not a strong swimmer, had the first melt down. Once J made it back on the kayak, I had the next meltdown only minutes later as a sting ray swam up next to me. That was it. I had enough.
We tried to imagine which marine life we were sharing the ocean with, shaking away the fear of sting rays, jelly fish, and sharks. The blood that was coming from me, hell, you may have well just taken me then.
An hour later, we approached shore. My legs looking as though we had undergone a shark attack, were covered by the bandages and Neosporin I had packed in case of emergency. There we were cutting bandages and piecing them together to cover the extensive injury. A party cruise and booze island with no first aid kit. This party cruise was ending up to be no party.
Thankfully, everyone got their crazy out the night before, as after dinner and multiple games of Uno, we were all in our shared cabin, bunk’d up by 9pm.
The next morning we lingered on Freedom Island before boarding the dinghy and junk boat back to Oasis Bay Party Cruise where we had a farewell luncheon, participated in a spring roll cooking class, and napped on the top deck.
Hours later, we were back in Hanoi, this time at Nexy Hostel. We checked out the neighborhood, having dinner along one of the numerous crowded streets.
We met up with friends made on the party cruise, at the very famous Beer Corner. Beer Corner is just one of many bars, with people exploding on the streets, sitting on little, colorful plastic stools.
We played a version of *on the way*, popping into bars that suited our fancy.
Once again, the bars closed by 12… which always works in my favor, as the next day was our only true day to explore Hanoi and like I mentioned, I really, really love to sleep.
We started the day by walking to the Hoa Lo Memorial Prison, where John McCain was a POW during the Vietnam War. The prison was informative, insightful and touching. You do have to take some of the information with a grain of salt, as they often refer to the prison as the Hanoi Hilton… Right. Let me just walk right into this torture and death chamber… nightmares for days.
We tried to get Bahn Mi’s at a local restaurant that Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain had dined at. Unfortunately, with the Vietnamese New Year approaching, many businesses were on break.
We opted for lunch at a beautiful and open aired restaurant, enjoying once again, rice… before heading to Train Street. The train was due to pass at 3pm, so as we walked along the tracks, we took a plastic seat on a cafe stoop to try the infamous Vietnamese egg coffee. Not a coffee drinker, I have to say I did enjoy the sweet taste and texture of this drink.
As word of mouth let everyone know that the train was approaching, cafe owners started furiously moving chairs and tables, directing the crowds to a safer distance. I quickly moved across the track where there was more space between myself and the moving train… standing in awe as it whipped by.
Heading back into the main area of the city, we visited the Ngoc Sun Temple in the middle of the lake, posing for silly and *awkward family photos* amongst the gardens.
Our time in Vietnam was sadly coming to an end, and our last “Vietnamese Friend date night” was spent watching the cultural water puppet show at the Thang Long Theatre and drinking beers on the streets of Beer Corner.
Regardless of the never-ending injuries, getting scammed by the government, and having my nerves rattled more than once, Vietnam has been the country to steal my heart…
Bearer of Blonde News 